FOOTBALL CULTURE

Why American Expats are Trading New Jersey for the Mountains of Molise

By Lauren Canning

For decades, Italian-Americans seeking a return to their ancestral roots have bought stone villas in the rolling hills of Tuscany, coastal retreats along the Amalfi cliffs, or traced family trees back to the bustling streets of Sicily.

Yet, deep within the rugged, mountainous interior of southern Italy, a different kind of quiet relocation is taking place. In Campobasso, the capital city of Molise, a growing enclave of American expats is intentionally bypassing the heavily commercialised tourist areas to immerse themselves in an authentic, old-school way of living that many assumed had vanished from the modern peninsula.

It is a migration driven partly by ancestry, partly by the global exposure generated by Campobasso FC’s cinematic football revival, but mostly by a shared craving for la bella vita.

Leaving New Jersey Behind

“My story goes back to my mum,” explains Michael Capps, an American expat and dual citizen who took the life-altering leap to relocate to the region full-time. “She grew up here in the vicinity of Campobasso in Casalciprano. She left here when she was 17, went to the States, and had me about two years later.”

Raised in New York and the suburban sprawl of New Jersey right outside Philadelphia, Michael always maintained a visceral pull towards Molise. After introducing his wife, Princess, to the region following their 2012 wedding in Italy, the connection hardened into an obsession.

By the summer of 2021, the couple reached a definitive tipping point. They sold everything they owned in New Jersey and caught a one-way flight to the Italian mountains, bringing their eight-year-old son with them into the ultimate linguistic deep end.

“He had no Italian whatsoever,” Michael recalls with a smile, reflecting on his son’s sudden immersion. “We put him right into Italian school. No English. There’s no English in this area… and now he speaks better Italian than both of us.”

Cultural Italy
Michael and Princess relocated to Campobasso in search of a more wholesome way of life (Photo credit: Destination Calcio)

It’s a Small World

When Michael and his family landed in July 2021, Campobasso was far from the trendy, internationally discussed sporting hub it is turning into today.

“Campobasso was not a very good soccer team at the time,” Michael notes. “Back in 2021, they were on the brink of basically losing everything.”

The financial rescue by American entrepreneur Matt Rizzetta, alongside Hollywood royalty Mark Consuelos and Kelly Ripa, transformed the landscape overnight. For Michael, the celebrity ownership group felt uncannily close to home. In a twist of geographical coincidence, Ripa had grown up in the town adjacent to Michael’s childhood home in New Jersey, and he had spent years working directly alongside her brother at a local hospital. “It’s a very small world,” Michael smiles.

The broader impact of that ownership group on the region’s obscurity was immense. “It put Campobasso in the spotlight because nobody knew anything about the city. You hear about Abruzzo, but the famous saying is ‘Molise non esiste’. At that time, yes, it did not exist. And now that they have been investing so much money into here – football completely put it on the map.”

Expats in Molise

Michael’s family were early pioneers, arriving just before the international trend gained speed. Recognising a distinct shift in interest, Michael founded Expats in Molise, a dedicated support network tailored specifically for foreigners navigating the region’s relocation process.

The group’s rapid expansion tells its own story. “Since 2021, we probably have well over 100 people who have bought in Molise, and some have been here full-time,” Michael reveals. “So we do have a close-knit family – people who retired here, packed up everything and came. We still work, so we’re not fully retired, and we enjoy it. Just today, we met two new Americans looking in the area to buy.”

What is drawing them in isn’t just the low cost of living, though Campobasso routinely ranks among Italy’s most affordable major provincial capitals. The true allure is a cultural preservation that has resisted the diluting forces of globalisation.

“This is the real true life, real Italian, what it’s supposed to be,” Michael explains. “This is all authentic; this is true. Stuff is handmade here, everything is grown here locally.”

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The castle stands proudly over the city with views looking over Campobasso’s stadium (Credit: Destination Calcio)

The Allure of Authenticity

This old-school authenticity manifests most clearly in the warmth and security of the community. In an era where safety and peace of mind have become premium commodities in major western cities, Molise offers a striking throwback to a gentler age.

“It’s very family-oriented, very close-knit, very warm and welcoming,” Michael reflects. “Since we’ve been here, everybody’s been more than welcome to take us in, to help us. We’ve been to restaurants, and the owners will give us their phone number if you need anything, if you need help trying to navigate around.”

Even the tribal, sometimes volatile world of Italian football takes on a distinctly civilised, community-centric flavour in the mountains of Molise. “It’s a very good sport, whether it’s at the bar or at the stadium. It’s very professional and has very strong people who really love the team.”

Connecting the Tracks

Logistically, Campobasso has historically required a conscious, deliberate effort to reach. It lacks the immediate, seamless transit links enjoyed by Rome or Florence, but infrastructure is steadily rising to meet the region’s newfound popularity.

Michael explained the recent progress of the regional rail electrification project, which has successfully restored modern train services as far as Boiano – a station just 20 minutes outside Campobasso.

“I just took that train for the first time and it’s a beautiful ride,” Michael shares. “It takes you right to Termini station in Rome, and then I jump on the Leonardo Express right into the airport. The train is convenient, and once it comes to Campobasso, it’ll be a little bit easier because then you can go straight down to the beach too, once everything’s all up and running with the electric. Hopefully soon.”

Until those final tracks are laid, the slight isolation remains a protective barrier, keeping the region’s soul intact. For the modern American looking to rediscover the true heart of the old country, the journey up into the mountains of Molise is proving to be well worth the effort.

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