Beers by the Ground and an Ancelotti Favourite: Matchday in Parma

The birthplace of two of Italy’s most famous culinary exports and a hub of Renaissance art, Parma remains one of Italy’s underrated destinations for a weekend away.

From a calcio standpoint, Parma were one of the most exciting teams of the 1990s. Gianfranco Zola, Hernan Crespo, Gianluigi Buffon and Juan Sebastian Veron all wore the iconic yellow and blue.

Matchday at the Stadio Ennio Tardini means a chance to take in a stadium that was a staple on Channel 4’s Football Italia, plus the loud Curva Nord and Serie A action for at least another season.

Start the day at… Coce Bakery

A stone’s throw from the Teatro Regio in the old town, Coce Bakery is an absolute must to get your day off to a flyer. Try to arrive at opening time or you might meet a queue, or worse still, shelves emptied of pastries. Walk off the breakfast with a stroll in the Parco della Cittadella just in time to grab another coffee at Lostello, a lovely modern building at the northern end of the park.

Explore… Parco Ducale

If you have time, head up to Parco Ducale across the river from the old town. The park dates back to 1561 when it was created under Duke Ottavio Farnese as a Renaissance garden, and its tree-lined paths are perfect for a quiet stroll, providing much-needed shade from the sun in the warmer months. Take a wander and marvel at the Palazzo Ducale facade and the fountains and statues dotted across the park.

For something quicker and central, the old town is the perfect place to wander around. Parma is a stylish and fashionable place and independent shops are far more prominent than your average chain stores. Make sure you visit a local salumeria, to marvel at the amount of cold cuts on display. Buy some with bread and taste them as you go, like a true local.

Go and see… the Teatro Regio

Along with La Scala in Milan, La Fenice in Venice and the Teatro San Carlo in Naples, the Teatro Regio in Parma is the heartbeat of Italy’s opera tradition.

Opened in 1829, the building’s neo-classic front makes way for a jaw-dropping interior. Lighting is provided by a massive oil-style chandelier weighing over a ton, which was built in Paris and transported all the way to Parma.

If you are in Parma in October try to get tickets for the Festival Verdi, dedicated to the composer Giuseppe Verdi who was born in nearby Busseto.

Grab food at… Ristorante Cocchi or Da Pepen 

Ristorante Cocchi on Viale Antonio Gramsci is recommended by Carlo Ancelotti, who spent five seasons in Parma as player and manager. Opened in 1925, this restaurant is at the higher end of the scale in terms of price, but you get what you pay for. It’s worth noting that Ancelotti also singled out Trattoria Squeri as his favourite place to eat but that is about half an hour outside the city.

Sorelle Picchi by the river is a favourite eatery of Parma president Kyle Krause, or for something simple head to Da Pepen and tuck into one of their famous sandwiches.

Get the pre-match buzz at… Piazzale Risorgimento

If you are looking for a pre-match drink, head to the Casino Petitot roundabout in Piazzale Risorgimento from where you can see the Tardini. Fans gather here for a beer and a quick sandwich from one of the food trucks that line the street before heading to the ground. Just down the road you will find Bar Torrefazione Baccanale, a meeting point for Parma fans on matchday as it sits across the road from the stadium.

Celebrate victory at… Enoteca Tabarro 

After the final whistle, head back to the old town and stop at Enoteca Tabarro on Strada Luigi Carlo Farini. A local institution, Tabarro is the perfect place to indulge in a glass of Lambrusco, along with a platter of cheese and prosciutto and join the locals out for their aperitivo.