Mantova Playbook: An Unrivalled Experience Watching the Virgilians

A former Renaissance powerhouse, known for its excellent cuisine and home to some breathtaking architecture, Mantua – or Mantova in Italian – ticks all the boxes of a major destination.

And yet, the city, which is surrounded on three sides by artificial lakes, still manages to feel like one of Italy’s little secrets.

From how to get tickets to where to eat and drink plus everything in between, this guide has you covered.

Where To Stay

No matter your taste and budget, there are plenty of options in Mantova. Staying in the centro storico places you just steps away from the main monuments and the city’s aperitivo scene.

If you want something still relatively central but away from the hustle and bustle of the cobbled centro storico, head towards Palazzo Te on the southern edge of the city. This also gives you a head start if you want to visit the Chamber of the Giants, the 16th-century Mannerist masterpiece housed in Palazzo Te.

For a slightly quieter atmosphere, consider looking towards the lakes, particularly the Lago Inferiore and the Lago di Mezzo, which offer a more scenic resort feel while still being only a 10-minute walk from the Ducal Palace, one of the city’s main historic buildings.

Where To Eat

Scaravelli: Forneria in Via Broletto in the centro storico is the perfect spot for breakfast. Treat yourself to a cappuccino and watch the world go by or admire the fresh pasta being cooked through glass windows. Make sure you try their famous primi da passeggio – literally ‘walking main dishes’ – freshly cooked pasta (pumpkin tortelli) served in cardboard tubs to eat while enjoying a stroll.

If you prefer something more formal, head to Scaravelli: Ristorante and Enoteca in Piazza delle Erbe, where you can try their signature luccio in salsa – pike in a savoury green sauce with polenta – the traditional Mantovan fish dish, all while admiring the stunning views on the Rotonda di San Lorenzo.

Closer to the lakes, Trattoria due Cavallini on Via Salnitro is a throwback to traditional local cuisine, offering delicious pumpkin tortelli, while Il Cigno and Antica Osteria della Fragoletta offer a modern twist on the local cuisine, the former in a more traditional setting, the latter in the fine-dining surroundings of a building dating back to the 1500s.

Where To Drink

Like Scaravelli, Bar Caravatti is also an institution in Mantova and also in Via Broletto, just a few steps from Piazza delle Erbe. Established in 1865, it has maintained its old-world charm and remains the city’s go-to spot for those wanting a real Italian bar experience and its signature Caravatti Aperitivo, a wine-based aperitif made from a secret recipe.

Closer to the ground, Bar Maratoneta is popular with matchgoers and regularly has football on TV, from Serie A to Champions League fixtures, while Bar Katy is just across the road from the Curva Te.

The Doolin is an Irish pub in Via Giovanni Zambelli and does everything you would expect – Guinness, live music and good food. The burgers jumped off the menu – there’s one called the George Best and that was a highlight – while the pub shows football on the big screen but only on a Sunday.

Don’t Forget

Tickets – Mantova tickets are available on the club website or at authorised Ticketone selling points (you can find a list here) and at the Mantova Point in Viale Te. You do not need to be a Mantova fidelity card holder to buy tickets but members are given priority.

Ticket prices start at €22 in the Curva Te and are most expensive in the Tribuna Centrale.

Merchandise – All Mantova match kits, collections and collaborations can be bought through the club’s online store and at the Mantova Point in Viale Te.

Did You Know?

Mantova are known as the Virgilians as the poet Virgil was born nearby. While they now play in red and white, they wore green and yellow in the 1960s during a seven-year spell in Serie A and were known as Little Brazil.

Getting There

Verona’s Valerio Catullo is the closest international airport, just over an hour away by train. Verona’s main station is 45 minutes away, while Milano Centrale is a two-and-a-half-hour ride and Bologna is just under two hours.

The Martelli is a 30-minute walk from Mantova’s main train station and is served by buses. Piazza delle Erbe in the centro storico is a 20-minute walk from the ground while the iconic Palazzo Te is a 10-minute stroll from the stadium.

Need Another Football Fix?  

Lombardy is a football hotbed and while travelling to San Siro from Mantova is a bit of a trek, Cremona, where Cremonese play, is just 90 minutes away by train. Cross the border into Veneto and watching Hellas Verona at the Stadio Bentegodi is less than hour away, while Modena is just over an hour on the train and Serie A’s mainstays Parma and Bologna are a bit further.