Empoli Playbook: Your Unrivalled Calcio Experience Away From the Tuscan Hotspots

The city of Empoli is the home of a particular type of artichoke, and of course, a Serie B football team. Located in Tuscany about a half-hour drive from Florence, Empoli tends to get overlooked when it comes to sightseeing in the region. 

Florence, Pisa and even Siena, Lucca and Livorno tend to steal most of the tourist spotlight. Yet Empoli has plenty to offer.

So, if you are heading to watch the Azzurri Empolesi in action, we have got you covered.

Where To Stay

Empoli is a fairly small city, and getting around on foot is manageable. Staying near to the city centre keeps you close to the action.

There is a healthy selection of high-end hotels, Airbnbs and everything in between. La Terrazza is one of the standout choices, close to the train station and within walking distance of the centro storico. With its rooftop terrace and modern decor in every room, it averages around £70 for a double per night.

HOMY BnB, near to the Museo del Vetro (Museum of Glass), is central, while on the north side of the River Arno, Hotel Da Vinci is a four-star establishment with double rooms at around £90 per night.

Where To Eat

Piazza della Vittoria is the place to go for fine Tuscan cuisine, with I’Rinforzino your first port of call. Situated on Via Roma, I’Rinforzino is a small (there are only six tables) but cosy restaurant that specialises in Florentine food, cooked by Florentines. Here you can order salumi and cheeseboards with cuts direct from the region, in addition to black risotto with Tuscan sausage. There’s an extensive wine list, in addition to a local twist on gin, spritz and negroni. Book in advance if visiting on a weekend.

And don’t forget, this area is also famous for its steak. Casa della Bistecca Food Club, on Via del Gelsomino, is about a three-minute walk from I’Rinforzino and has a range of butcher’s cuts from over 30 breeds of cattle across the world.

Another great choice is Ciborgo on Via Jacopo Chimenti. The menu is small and focused on seafood, from gnocchi with prawns to carbonara di mare.

And each year Empoli hosts an artichoke festival to celebrate its culinary staple, which can be found in the traditional risotto ai carciofi all’Empolese (artichoke risotto) or in the city’s typical carciofi fritti (fried artichokes). The Empolese variety is prickle-free and characterised by a deep green to violet colour. Sapori di Toscana (Flavours of Tuscany) sits a few kilometres outside the middle of town while Ristorante Riso & Brace is more central. Both do the risotto ai carciofi very well.

Where To Drink

La Birroteca, on Via Cosimo Ridolfi, specialises in regional craft beers. Of course, there are options for spirits, wine, Prosecco and cocktails, but it’s the lengthy list of beer options that steals the show here.

For something a little more upmarket and chic, look no further than All’incontro Cocktail Music and More on Via Roma. Like the name says, cocktails are very much the name of the game here, with the usual selection of well-known drinks on offer, but also some native ones – such as All’incontro. There is wine and beer to be had of course, not to mention some nibbles, but you are here for the cocktails and the vibe. 

If you want somewhere with a healthy menu, The Alchemist Pub is on Via B. Ricasoli. Close to the train station, it offers the usual blend of drinks, food and live music.

Moreover, the menu is wide ranging, meaning you can sip on anything from beer to wine to whisky and everything in between. Their food offering is impressive, with pizza, burgers, nachos, fries, focaccia, salumi and cheese boards and even a surprising range of desserts available.

Don’t Forget

Tickets for Empoli matches can be purchased on the club’s official ticket seller, Vivaticket, in the days before the game.

When picking up tickets at the stadium or at the office, remember ID and leave a bit of time as they can get busy.

Kick-off times will be moved for television, so bear that in mind when arranging a trip far in advance.

Merchandise – All merchandise can be bought on the club website or at the Empoli store in Piazza della Vittoria in the city centre, which is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9.30am to 1pm and then again from 3.30-7.30pm, and Mondays 3.30pm to 7.30pm.

Getting There

Empoli doesn’t have an airport, so the closest entry points are Pisa and Florence from abroad. Pisa is the busier airport of the two and is better connected from the UK.

The city is, fortunately, sandwiched between Pisa and Florence, and easily accessible by train. Once you get to the city, the Castellani is a 20-minute walk from the centre of town.

Need Another Football Fix?

Take your pick. Fiorentina is close by if you want more Serie A action. Pisa are now back in Serie B, while Siena, Livorno and Lucchese are in the lower echelons.