Farinata, the Gulf and the Curva Ferrovia: Matchday in La Spezia

Many travellers only see La Spezia from the train, on their way to the Cinque Terre. But the city sitting at the top of the Gulf of Poets is worth a full day, especially when Spezia are playing at home.

The team dropped down to Serie C at the end of the 2025-26 season, a few years after their first spell in Serie A, but the Stadio Alberto Picco, just a short walk from the station and the seafront, still fills up on matchday.

Here’s our guide.

Start the day with… a coffee on the Passeggiata Morin

Start by the sea. The Passeggiata Morin is the seafront promenade along the gulf, and in the morning it is calm. Grab a coffee at one of the cafés and watch the boats. La Spezia is a navy town, and from the promenade you can see the ships in the harbour. If you want a longer walk, carry on east to Porto Mirabello, the modern marina just outside the centre.

Go and see… Castello San Giorgio

From the seafront, head up into the old town. Castello San Giorgio is a restored medieval fortress that now houses an archaeological museum, and it has the best viewpoint in the city. From the ramparts, you can see over the old town and down to the gulf. The Parco delle Mura, along the old city walls, is another quiet walk with good views. If you have an extra day, Portovenere and Lerici are on the gulf, and the Cinque Terre start just west of the city.

Grab food at… La Pia

For lunch, go to La Pia, where locals eat pizza and farinata al trancio, a thin chickpea pancake baked in a wood-fired oven and sold by the slice. It is cheap and filling. On matchdays, it is also a meeting point, so you will see Spezia shirts at the tables.

If you want a proper sit-down meal, All’Inferno in the old town serves traditional Spezzino cooking in an underground cellar with brick vaults. Order the stuffed mussels or the mesciua, a local soup of chickpeas, farro and beans. If you would rather eat by the water, Dai Pescatori is seafood on the seafront. The fish is cheap and quick to arrive, which makes it a good stop before an early kick-off.

Pick up a scarf at… the club shop

On the way to the ground, stop at the Spezia club shop on Viale Fieschi, close to the stadium. The black-and-white shirts have a story of their own. The club took its colours from Pro Vercelli in the early years, as a tribute to one of the great teams of Italian football’s first era.

Get the pre-match buzz… at Bar Toscano

This is where the Spezia ultras meet before a game. The crowd gathers well before kick-off and the singing starts in the street outside. From here, it is a short walk to the Picco. Follow the fans along Viale Fieschi, which takes you straight to the stadium’s main entrance. If you are standing in the Curva Ferrovia, look for the cycle path behind the stand. It follows the old railway line to the military arsenal, and that is where the curva gets its name.

Celebrate victory at… Paolino’s Pub

After the final whistle, head to Piazza del Mercato. Paolino’s Pub is the meeting point, and the square fills up quickly once the crowd leaves the ground. The mood stays warm whatever the result. If you want something smaller, Tre Canti in the alleys of the old centre is a good place for a last drink.