Trattoria La Colonna – Where Neapolitan Heart Meets Venetian Soul

In Venice, there is a distinct art to getting lost. Most tourists do it by accident and end up in a spiral of overpriced Aperol and sub-par pizza. But if you steer yourself toward the quieter corners of Cannaregio, specifically the pocket around Campiello Widmann, you’ll find a place to dine that makes the labyrinthine trek worthwhile: Trattoria La Colonna.

Tucked away from the frantic hum of the Rialto, La Colonna is the quintessential Venetian trattoria – unpretentious, charmingly simple, and humming with the low chatter of people who actually live here. In fact, on the adjacent table were three generations of Venetian women sharing dishes, enjoying wine and gesticulating wildly.

The restaurant is run by chef and owner Maurizio, who enjoys strolling around, chatting to diners and recommending dishes. While the menu is a love letter to the Venetian lagoon, a glance at the walls or a chat with the man himself reveals a different kind of passion. Maurizio is a dedicated Napoli fan, and you’ll find bits of Azzurri memorabilia tucked among the more traditional décor.

A flash of Neapolitan blue in the heart of La Serenissima adds a layer of personality you don’t find in the lagoon’s more ‘polished’ restaurants. A true fan, Maurizio couldn’t possibly run his own kitchen without a nod to his football allegiance.

The menu at La Colonna is known for its incredible seafood, but there is something for everyone. We opened with the Sarde in Saor, a classic Venetian dish. The sardines were perfectly balanced – the sharpness of the vinegar and the sweetness of the onions playing off each other.

For the primi, we leaned into the owner’s southern roots with the Gnocchi alla Sorrentina. Bubbling with rich tomato sauce and pull-apart mozzarella, it was a heart-warming departure from the lighter lagoon fare. However, the Spaghetti alle Vongole brought us firmly back to the water. The clams were tiny, sweet, and plentiful, tossed in a garlic and herb sauce. Delicious.

We finished with a Panna cotta – silky and simple with the bitter red berry compote offsetting the sugary cream.

La Colonna is a reminder that local spots still exist in a city filled with international visitors.

Whether you’re there for the seafood or a Napoli fan keen to talk football with Maurizio, it’s a spot that captures the real Venice – one that exists quietly, away from the crowds, serving up soul-warming food to anyone lucky enough to stumble upon it.

Address: Campiello Widmann già Biri, 5329, 30121 Venezia

Open: Thurs-Tues 12pm-3pm for lunch; 6.30pm-10pm for dinner