Discovering Trastevere, Rome’s Soul Beyond the Stadium

If you travel to the Eternal City for a Roma or Lazio match (or better still, the derby), the roar of the Stadio Olimpico is an experience to remember. But when the final whistle blows and the adrenaline dips, discover the Rome that locals love. And there’s no better place to do that than Trastevere.

Trastevere means beyond the Tiber, and that’s exactly what it feels like – a mini city beyond the crumbling ruins and endless selfie sticks. Where families gather to eat, old friends play cards in the piazzas, and trattorias hand-roll pasta just as they did when Franco Sensi owned the Giallorossi. While the centro storico dazzles with epic history, Trastevere is quietly authentic.

Once home to a mix of artists, immigrants and expats, the neighbourhood is popular with tourists; however, you will often find yourself surrounded by Italians rather than fellow visitors.

Why You Should Visit

This isn’t a one-time bucket-list location to tick off. While the architecture and history are plentiful, it’s the feel of the area that keeps you coming back for more. 

Trastevere shape shifts to fit your needs. Generations of families sit down to eat together. Kids run around the piazzas way past bedtime. Couples head to the quieter restaurants for a romantic dinner, and groups of friends spill out of the bars until the early hours.

Such is the allure of this buzzing neighbourhood that I stayed in the heart of it for six (swelteringly hot) weeks and could have happily stayed for six more. 

Getting Around

Getting to the centre of Trastevere from the Stadio Olimpico takes 15 minutes by taxi or it’s a 90-minute walk, taking you past the Vatican City and Castel Sant’Angelo. With regular buses and the tram, it is easy to get around, but you won’t find a Metro stop in Trastevere.

If you have time to explore, the main sights are also within walking distance. The Vatican: 25 mins. Colosseum: 35 mins. Pantheon: 20mins. Piazza Navona: 15 mins. Trevi Fountain: 30 mins. Spanish Steps: 35 mins.

Where To Stay

You won’t find giant hotel chains in Trastevere as very few of the buildings have been modernised over the years. 

Le Clarisse is a former convent dating back to 1122 and has been given a new life as a compact yet beautifully designed hotel. The rooms are named after plants found in the internal courtyard (the perfect place for breakfast), and there are a few small apartments for those needing more space. Located close to transport to the main city, you can’t go wrong with this hotel.

If Airbnbs are more your style, there are plenty to choose from, but in the summer months, apartments with air conditioning tend to book up first. Mosquitos are rife in Rome, so sleeping with the windows open for ventilation is a no-go. Pay a little extra for air con, you’ll be thankful after a cool night’s sleep. 

The piazzas in Trastevere tend to be where Italians congregate and chat until the early hours. If you want a full night’s sleep, avoid accommodation directly near Piazza di Santa Maria, Piazza San Cosimato and Piazza Trilussa. You are never far from the action in this neighbourhood, but we recommend staying away from the main hubs if you are sensitive to late-night noise.

If easy access to the main city is a priority, stay near the Tiber to be close to the action and only a bridge away from central Rome.

When To Visit

Trastevere is alive all year round, but spring and summer allow for what the neighbourhood does best – al fresco drinking and dining.

In peak summer, locals escape the heat of the city for the mountains or beaches during Ferragosto (Italy’s mid-August holiday). If you’re booking your calcio weekender for when the season restarts in late August, be aware that some of the local businesses may still be shut while they partake in la dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing).

Where To Drink

Football never really ends in Rome; it just shifts venues, and in Trastevere, there are plenty of options for a post-match debrief.

Freni e Frizioni (Via del Politeama 4) – A converted mechanic’s garage turned cocktail bar, now an aperitivo institution. Order a Negroni or two and stay until it closes at 2am.

Bar San Calisto (Piazza di San Calisto) – An institution in Trastevere. Expect plastic cups, low prices and plenty of character. You’ll find everyone here: old-timers, students, artists – and at least one diehard Romanista.

Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà (Via Benedetta 25) – A craft beer temple beloved by football fans. Expect local brews, ultras stickers on every wall, and spirited tactical arguments in rapid Italian.

Where To Eat

Despite being a predominantly local neighbourhood, this is Rome, so you will find a few tourist traps. Skip the laminated menus and follow the locals.

Da Enzo al 29 (Via dei Vascellari 29) – A tiny, family-run trattoria that locals guard like a secret. The carbonara is textbook perfection, and the tiramisu might just ruin all others for you. You can’t make a reservation, so be prepared to wait for a table.

Tonnarello (Via della Paglia 1) – Busy, boisterous, and impossible not to love. Pasta is served in deep metal pans, wine flows freely, and the atmosphere feels like a post-match celebration every night.

Osteria der Belli (Piazza di Santa Cecilia 24) – A Sardinian gem just off the tourist path. Order the Roman artichoke to start, followed by spaghetti vongole. Perfection.

For gelato, head to Otaleg. I firmly believe it is the best in Rome.

Don’t Miss

The sunset from Gianicolo Hill – one of the city’s best views.

A Sunday wander through Porta Portese Market for vintage treasures.

Late-night pizza al taglio from Ivo a Trastevere if you still need a post-match snack. It’s open until midnight on weekdays and 12:30am on weekends.