Cicchetti, Spritz and the Bustling Via Garibaldi: Matchday Guide to Venice

Venice is a city that feels like a film set, but behind the masks and busy streets lies a passionate footballing soul. With Venezia oscillating between the glamour of Serie A and the dogfights of Serie B, the Stadio Luigi Penzo has become the ultimate calcio pilgrimage.

Forget the tourist traps of San Marco; a matchday here is about crossing the water, dodging the crowds, and finding the orange, black, and green heart of the city. Here’s how to do the walk from central Venice to the stadium like a local tifoso.

Start the day with… a coffee at Rivo Alto

To kick things off with the best view in the house, head to Rivo Alto. Situated right at the foot of the Rialto Bridge on the San Polo side, it’s one of the busiest crossroads in Venice, but there’s no better place to feel the energy of the city before you begin the march east towards the stadium. You pay for the location with a cappuccino costing an eye-watering €5. Still, it’s the perfect opportunity to sit down and absorb the beauty of the gravity-defying white marble bridge without being jostled by the crowds. If there’s one super touristy thing you do in Venice, let it be this.

Go and see… the Biennale Gardens

As you leave the bustle of the Rialto behind and head toward the Sant’Elena district, you’ll pass through the Giardini della Biennale. It’s a rare patch of greenery in a city of stone and water. Even if you aren’t there for the art, the sprawling park and its grand pavilions provide a serene contrast to the vocal atmosphere developing just a few hundred yards away at the ground. Often missed off a tourist itinerary, it’s a great stop-off point on the way to the stadium and the perfect place to take a breather.

Grab food at… El Refolo

Located on Via Garibaldi, this tiny bar has a big reputation. It serves delicious cicchetti, Venice’s answer to tapas. Grab a couple of crostini topped with baccalà mantecato (creamy salted cod) and a small glass of wine, known locally as an ombra, and grab a table outside.

Get the pre-match buzz at… Vincent Bar

This is the holy grail for the pre-game ritual. Tucked away on the island of Sant’Elena, just a stone’s throw from the stadium gates, Vincent Bar is where the arancioneroverde congregate. Fans spill out of the bar, making it the perfect spot to grab a birra, watch supporters arrive by boat, and soak up the anticipation.

Celebrate victory at… Via Garibaldi

Once the final whistle blows, the masses drift back from Sant’Elena towards the heart of the city, stopping off at Via Garibaldi. As one of the widest streets in Venice (built over a filled-in canal), it becomes a bustling corridor of celebration.

We like Bar Al Calice, but you can’t go wrong on this street. Find a free table and order your favourite spritz. It’s the one place in the city where the football takes precedence over the tourism – a perfect end to a day on the lagoon.