A Vibrant Tuscan Town with More than Just a Tower: Matchday in Pisa

It will always be home to one of the most recognisable tourist attractions on the planet, but there is so much more to Pisa than its Leaning Tower.

Tuscany’s fifth-largest city is a vibrant university town and, for the first time in 34 years, had a team rubbing shoulders with the calcio giants in Serie A, before they dropped back down after a season.

Here’s everything you need to know before you go.

Stay in… Santa Maria

Pisa is neat, tidy and also fairly small. Staying in the historic city centre means the Piazza del Duomo, the Leaning Tower and 800 years of history are never far away. 

We went for the Airbnb option as they are dotted all around and there are also plenty of hotels near the tower.

For obvious reasons this is extremely popular with tourists and does get very busy but if you don’t want to walk too far, then Santa Maria is the place to be.

Go and see… the city walls

The ancient walls that encircle the historic centre can be walked on and offer fantastic views.

Mura di Pisa, as it is known, was built in the 12th century to guard the city and most of the walls have stood the test of time, bar one or two sections.

Entry costs as little as €5 and makes for a very pleasant stroll away from the bustling crowds around the Leaning Tower.

Grab food at… Chilometro Toscano

One of the delights of visiting any city, especially in Italy, is unearthing a gem of a restaurant and passing it along as a recommendation. For Pisa, look no further than Chilometro Toscano.

Sitting just yards from the River Arno on Via Camillo Cavour, the restaurant is a favourite among locals. With select cuts, formaggi, various Tuscan pasta dishes – many with tender deer in the middle – and an extensive wine list, it is impossible to leave disappointed.

Get the pre-match buzz at… Spritzmania

With many of the bars around the stadium closed for security reasons in the hours leading up to games, your best bet is to have a tipple by the Arno – there are places on both sides.

We chose Spritzmania in Piazza Cairoli, a stone’s throw away from the Ponte di Mezzo. Order any spritz, or a cocktail, and some nibbles and you’ll be ready for the short walk to the Garibaldi to watch the Nerazzurri in action.

If a spritz or a cocktail isn’t your thing, check out the Violin Irish Pub, not too far away on Piazza delle Vettovaglie. Pub grub, live music and buckets of charm right in the heart of Pisa.

Toast victory in… Via San Martino

Piazza delle Vettovaglie, just off Via Notari, is a bustling square that has plenty of options.

Crowds of people sitting around and chatting is very Italian while a different option could be Numeroundici (Number 11), a stripped-back-but-sleek restaurant.

There’s nothing fancy about Numeroundici, but that’s the point. It is very much a DIY kind of place: grab your own coffee, cutlery, water and when your food is ready, walk up and take it from the chef. There are no waiters or waitresses here. Oh, and there are no chairs, only benches and tables. Everyone mucks in and sits side-by-side.

Enjoy a glass (or bottle) of red with your primi, before heading out into the street in Via San Martino to a row of bars, all with a more distinct bohemian vibe than across the river.