Gondolas. Romance. History. 

Three words that perfectly describe this magical Italian destination.

But what if I also said calcio?

Venice is no hidden gem. Every year hordes of tourists flock to the 100 floating islands in north-eastern Italy, ready to soak up the magic of this gravity-defying, bucket-list location.

But Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo, home to Venezia, is one secret many tourists are yet to uncover.

Seeing Venice in the movies, you would be forgiven for assuming that the stadium must be miles away from the main group of islands known as Centro Storico. But it is no more than a 30-minute walk from the famous Rialto Bridge, perched beautifully on the tiny island of Sant’Elena.

After buying a ticket at the Venezia merch store in Campo SS Apostoli, I headed to the match, my route taking me past The Bridge of Sighs, Piazza San Marco, and Doge’s Palace. Moving away from the main block, historic landmarks were replaced with towering super yachts moored just minutes from central Venice.

The incredible architecture made the 35-degree August heat bearable, but for those less into touristic masochism, the ACTV Line 1 ferry goes via San Marco-San Zaccaria (stop F) to S. Elena – then to the stadium at Penzo. The boat takes 26-44 minutes, depending on the route, and costs around €10.

Finally arriving at Vincent bar, Venezia fans poured out of this iconic venue, sipping beer with t-shirts stuck to their bodies. Calcio in August is not for the weak-hearted.

As we filtered towards the stadium the queue passed over a small wooden bridge, the canal below lined with small boats. How very Venetian. 

Once through the turnstiles, you are only a few paces from the stands. The Penzo is Italy’s second-oldest football stadium, having opened its doors in 1913 and been named afterwards in honour of a local World War I pilot.

On television it looks tired with basic stands. In person, it is endearingly simple. There is no grandeur here, unlike the rest of Venice. This is not a feat of architecture, more a feat of location. Three open-air stands give an epic view of the Rio Sant’Elena, with church towers peeking out from behind the metal-clad Tribuna.

Venezia have unveiled plans for a new stadium in the Bosco dello Sport complex in Tessera, northern Venice. Capacity will be 18,500, expandable to 25,000. With construction scheduled for completion in the first half of 2027, I urge you to visit sooner rather than later to experience the raw magic of this historic stadium. 

I was in the central section with the ultras, although seat numbers are just a technicality. 

It was hot, loud, chaotic.

It was spectacular.

By the end of the first half, I was ready to get a Venezia tattoo and pledge to give my life to the club. This is the power of passion – it seeps into your body via osmosis.

Taking a breather in a bid to ensure my hearing wasn’t permanently damaged from the beat of a pounding drum, I climbed to the top of the stand to take in the view. 

What a place to watch calcio. The Disneyland-esque feel of Venice slips away in the stadium and you get a strong taste of the heart and soul of this city. 

American novelist Truman Capote once said: “Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go.” He’s not wrong. 

Beneath the postcard beauty, there’s resilience – Venetians balancing the weight of tourism with the pride of protecting their fragile, one-of-a-kind home.

My advice to you is simple. Get drunk on the beauty of this floating phenomenon. Sip on the gothic architecture and drink in the touristic allure. But make sure you indulge in the passion of the locals.

After all, what’s a city without its football club?