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The Emilia-Romagna Hat-Trick – Exploring Parma, Modena and Bologna

By Joseph O'Sullivan

Published on: August 6, 2025

Rome, Naples and Milan usually get the attention but there is a huge region further north, home to 4.5million people, that is worth exploring.

Emilia-Romagna stretches into the lush green interior of northern Italy and out to the Adriatic Sea, from Piacenza in the north to Rimini on the coast, with a spine of road and railway connecting the towns and cities making it the perfect place for a tour.

Calcio lovers are spoilt for choice here, too. From Imolese to Carpi and Cesena to Ravenna, you can find every level of Italian football, not just the Serie A regulars Bologna and Parma.

But it is impossible to cover an entire region so vast and varied in one hit, so here’s three cities not to miss.

Parma Calcio v Palermo - Coppa Italia
Parma is home to the Stadio Ennio Tardini but the city has much more worth discovering (Photo by Parma Calcio 1913/Parma Calcio 1913 via Getty Images)

Why Parma?

Yes there’s the famous blue and yellow kits and glamour names of the 1990s, but Parma has a lot to offer away from the Ennio Tardini Stadium.

Parmigiano-Reggiano is the official name for what you and I call parmesan cheese while Prosciutto di Parma is what is often referred to as parma ham. The clue is in the name, but these are products proudly born of Parma. Every evening cobbled city streets are lined by locals catching up with family, friends and neighbours over sprawling platters of ham and cheese. Perfectly salted local goods go well with the sweet taste of a sparkling Lambrusco.

You can’t go wrong at Enoteca Tabarro on Strada Luigi Carlo Farini. They also happen to be wine specialists so, walk around the city all day and then reward yourself here at 6pm when it opens.

Walkability is a massive plus. The biggest cities in Emilia-Romagna are not victim to packed metros or expensive taxi rides, as everything seems to be a 20-minute stroll away.

The best thing to do is wander, eat, repeat. All within a few minutes walk of Tabarro you can also enjoy incredible ice cream at Ciacco on Piazza della Steccata and delicious sandwiches in the authentic and reasonably priced institution that is Da Pepen.

Parma’s stadium is a 15-minute walk from all of these mouth-watering spots.

Why Modena?

Modena is home to what some might consider the real Holy Trinity: Ferrari, Pavarotti and balsamic vinegar.

Enzo Ferrari was born in this charming Italian city on February 18, 1898. He founded Ferrari in 1939 and made Giallo Modena (Modena yellow) its official colour. The red came with the racing. “Ask a child to draw a car, and certainly he will draw it red,” said Enzo himself. Get yourself down to Museo Enzo Ferrari in Modena.

Modena is where you will find the Enzo Ferrari Museum (Photo by Peter Fox/Getty Images)

Luciano Pavarotti, the most famous operatic tenor of all time, was born in Modena in 1935 and died there in 2007, aged 71. You can visit the Casa Museo Luciano Pavarotti outside the city as part of the Modena leg of your trip. Pavarotti lived here and the home is now a museum dedicated to his legacy, filled with incredible momentos.

Aceto Balsamico di Modena completes the hat-trick of reasons to visit Modena. The name comes from the latin word balsamum which means balsam-like or curative. I can promise you now, take a seat in the stunning Piazza Grande and dip some fresh bread into the finest local balsamico. All of your problems will be cured.

The Alberto Braglia Stadium is a 15-minute walk from the Piazza Grande. The ground itself is one of the most modern buildings in Modena, and the incredibly designed floodlights pop out from behind the stands like giant alien antennae stretching into the sky. Modena, often overlooked as a tourist destination, is certainly worth a visit.

Why Bologna?

Bologna is the capital city of the Emilia-Romagna region and while still walkable, you will definitely chalk up more steps here than you will in Parma or Modena.

Admittedly, Bologna is approaching a level of popularity where the main squares are turning into tourist traps. However, the old-town alleys are filled with restaurants and bohemian bars. This is a student city with a hipster feel and the university, founded in 1088, is widely recognised as the oldest in the western world.

The Two Towers are a city landmark that you simply will not miss. They point to the past, as between the 12th and 13th centuries Bologna boasted a skyline of these incredible structures.  

The home of Bologna football club and the must-visit Santuario Madonna di San Luca are a bit of a trek from the centre. A hop-on hop-off bus tour is a good option to reach this part of town, or you can take a bus direct from the train station.

Bologna’s iconic Renato Dall’Ara Stadium, on the eastern edge of the city, is a fantastic place to watch the beautiful game. It also has a tower. Bologna have been in fine form over the past couple of seasons and this single-tier arena does not have a bad seat in the house.

From the stadium, the Sanctuary of San Luca is a 30-40 minute climb, lined by 666 iconic archways. The number is haunting but the view is delightful. This jaunt is worth it, especially if you want to work off last night’s ragu. But if you don’t fancy the stairs then fear not as the hill-top church is also accessible by road.

Once you have the daytime activities behind you I would recommend the Trattoria del Tempo Buono for a fabulous bowl of pasta ragu or spaghetti bolognese. This city is full of proud restaurants that claim to do the best version of the famous local dish.

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