DESTINATIONS. FOOTBALL CULTURE. SERIE A.
Calcio Weekender: three days in Como
Nothing better encapsulates Serie A’s uplifting anthem than three days of delicious food, stunning architecture and lakeside views. Indeed, I’m talking about Como (with a dash of Monza sprinkled in). Welcome to the first of our Lombardia editions.
With bellies invaded by delicious cuisine, described best by Lauren here, Dan and I checked in to the Stadio Giuseppe Sinigaglia in preparation for Como 1907’s first home game in Serie A for 21 years and four months. To Alex, Mirwan and the club staff, vi ringrazio. Congratulations to all the Como fans who heard ‘O Generosa’ played for the first time in their recently refurbished stadium.
Top-flight football at one of the world’s most unique venues was made even better by a one-of-a-kind beer. La Comasca (the name gives away its geographic origins) is silk-filtered, and it was being poured off the back of a Piaggio Ape in two brews – Gold and Lager. The club even went to the trouble of making their own plastic cups – as ever, they key is in the details.
As for the calcio, who could ask for more? Four goals, a dozen more scoring opportunities, an attendance north of 10,000 and rays of sunshine beaming through the clouds and onto Lake Como.
Whenever somebody took a corner kick, my eyes were inevitably drawn down to the lake top, then up towards the rolling hills that engulf the skyline. That’s something money can’t usually buy unless you get tickets to the Sinigaglia.
Como’s domination was rewarded when Patrick Cutrone’s deflected cutback crept in at the near post, later ruled as an own goal. As you’d expect, the place erupted.
Then it finally arrived. Some 7793 days after Mirko Benin’s winner against Torino, Cutrone became the first Como player to score a Serie A goal at the Sinigaglia. And it was a thing of beauty: a glorious solo run and a ruthless strike from the edge of the penalty box. What a way to respond to the social media warriors who threatened him over the past few weeks after his missed penalty against Udinese.
Earlier in the summer, I interviewed some of Como’s most passionate fans, including Katia, some with lifelong affiliations stemming back to the 1970s. They would have been proud to see their team deservedly hit the lead for the first time this season, and then extend it.
Thick skin is the best armour for fans of newly promoted clubs. They almost always merit more respect than other fans in terms of patience, suffering and dedication (of course, there are exceptions to the rule).
Despite recently qualifying for the Champions League, Bologna fans know those feelings too well, and their few hundred away supporters were thrilled to see a late fightback, pulling level in second-half stoppage time courtesy of Samuel Iling Junior’s super strike (a mood-dampener as far as the locals were concerned). On the balance of play, the 2-2 scoreline flattered Bologna, but ‘that’s football.’
After finishing up our Como podcast from the stands, we went to the post-match presser where managers Vincenzo Italiano and Cesc Fabregas were given the third degree, the latter quite well spoken but still chasing his first Serie A win.
Our Saturday ended with a caprese salad, pizza and Amaro Montenegro. Yes, we ate until our belts needed unbuckling.
The wind died down the following day. That meant a fancy boat excursion with Captain Domenico: fresh air, afternoon sunshine and wet t-shirts.
Domenico talked us through which waterfront villas held the most importance, pointing out where Giorgia Meloni met Volodymyr Zelenskyy days before. What I’d give to be a fly on the wall in that villa that day.
Back to football, defending champions Inter Milan needed a win in Monza to climb back to the summit of Serie A, and we were looking forward to some Adriano Galliani drama at the U-Power Stadium.
Inter showed up to the Lombardia derby with 4,000 of their finest in the Curva Nord, the rest of the 17,000-seater stadium awash in a sea of red and white.
The weather took an Arctic turn, with only Galliani needing the cooling break. He led the deafening roar in the 81st minute when Dany Mota headered in, an impact off the bench matched by Denzel Dumfries seven minutes later.
And the points were shared for the second consecutive match we’d attended. Somehow, Udinese are alone at the top of the standings, with Napoli in second place.
Getting to Monza from Como meant a 50-minute car journey, and the parking situation outside the U-Power is tricky. When driving there, we recommend the free street parking at Epetrol, then the ten-minute walk to Gate 3.
Special mention goes to the Monza supporters who paid tribute to eight-year-old Ronesio, who passed away last week after a long illness.
“Ronesio, a new star, shining brightly in the night sky,” read the banner in the Curva Sud. In Italian, it reads as “Ronesio una nuova stella, brilla nel firmamento,” and Monza defender Luca Caldirola thanked the club’s fans on social media.
Ronesio, who supported Juventus and Monza, lapped the U-Power when his two favourite sides met in January. Riposa in pace.
With five teams within an hour of each other, Lombardia calcio binges sell themselves. Located half an hour by car from Milan, Monza is a tremendous option. Each curva is twelve rows thick, and the main stands house local fan groups like the Amici del Monza, Alta Brianza, San Fruttuoso and those from an area nearby called Lissone. This suburb is home to the Serie A International Broadcasting Centre (where VAR calls get made and commentators call games).
Three nights in Como and flights from the United Kingdom will set you back at least €1000. Here are links for tickets for Como 1907 and AC Monza matches.
We’ll be back in Lombardia this weekend for the Derby della Madonnina and Atalanta vs Como. Pending our flights into Linate, Serie C action might be on the cards in Sesto San Giovanni, where Vicenza faces Alcione Milano on Saturday evening.
Read about our previous weekenders in Genova, Campania and Italy’s Northern regions.
There is no better way to spend your weekends as long as the destination is calcio.
