FOOTBALL CULTURE. SERIE B.
Sparkling Modena: The Emilia-Romagna Jewel With More to Offer Beyond Cars and Calcio
Nestled between Parma and Bologna in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy and with a population of under 200,000 people, Modena is often overlooked by visitors for neighbouring towns and the Adriatic coastline.
If thereâs one thing Modena is most famous for, itâs traditional balsamic vinegar. Unlike the versions found on supermarket shelves, authentic Modena balsamic is an artisanal product thatâs aged for years – sometimes decades – until it reaches perfection.
This popular export, alongside the powerful tones of Luciano Pavarotti and Ferrari, the Italian symbol of wealth and sporting greatness, creates a trifecta of Italian excellence.
Modena, a football destination
After watching Bologna vs Atalanta at Stadio Renato Dall’Ara, Destination Calcio hopped on a train to Modena on a glorious Sunday afternoon in late September ahead of a Serie B clash with Sampdoria at the Stadio Alberto Braglia.
Modena is a city that rewards the curious traveller. It doesnât shout for attention but instead invites you to discover its secrets at your own pace. Whether youâre here for the food, the history, the cars or the calcio, thereâs something for everyone. And with its central location, Modena is a great base for exploring other parts of Emilia-Romagna.
After a short walk from the train station to the city centre, the sun was glistening as we joined the locals wandering around Piazza Grande’s open-air market hoping to snag a bargain. But as the pre-match buzz began to build, it was clear most fans had their sights firmly set on snagging a win against a resurgent Sampdoria later that afternoon.
Samp went into the game with confidence soaring after their Coppa Italia win against Genoa, but skirmishes between both sets of fans ahead of Wednesday’s Derby della Lanterna meant the Blucerchiati supporters were banned from attending the game in Modena, denying the Braglia of a full house.
Walking the streets en route to the stadium is arguably one of the most aesthetically pleasing strolls you’ll find in Italy. The wonderfully-coloured buildings, all light pinks, yellows and oranges, and the spotless streets made for such a pleasant experience.
The Braglia can be reached by walking through the Novi Ark Archaeological Park, a piece of land that was once a hippodrome and a cattle market but is now home to the University of Modena and Reggio Emilia.
Despite the ban, a few dozen tickets were acquired by Samp fans, well worth the trip from Genoa given the 1-3 scoreline in their favour. All four goals were scored in the second half, the pick of the bunch being Massimo Coda’s wonderful solo effort.
Coda, a Serie B veteran at this stage of his career with well over a century of goals in the second tier, latched on to Gennaro Tutinoâs defence-splitting pass, flicked the ball delicately around Modena defender Riyad Idrissi, before skipping around the other side and executing a majestic half-volley that gave Modena goalkeeper Riccardo Cagno no chance.
The goal was worth the admission fee alone. Speaking of which, you can purchase tickets from the Official Modena website.
Modena did give the home fans something to cheer about, as substitute Gady-Pierre Beyuku Bowutankoyi scored a header late on. To their credit, the Canarini Ultras sung until well after the full-time whistle despite the disappointing result that prevented them from reaching the Top eight. The fans are a big part of the match day experience.
Back in the city centre, the bars dotted around Piazza Grande filled up with disgruntled Modena fans, dissecting their team’s performance at aperitivo time. For Destination Calcio it was off to Balzac Bistro to dabble in some fine Modenesi cold cuts and bread dashed with balsamic vinegar.
Situated on the outer edge of the piazza, Balzac is an ideal spot to look out towards the comings and goings. We were served up balsamic vinegar by Giuseppe Giusti, a local company thatâs produced balsamic since 1605, and their store is a stone’s throw away.
Of course, it would be rude to tuck into some local delicacies and not try some local wine. Lambrusco di Sorbara Vigna del Cristo, a Modenesi red sparkling wine, was duly distributed and washed down as the sun was beginning to set on a delightful day out in Modena.
With its proximity to both Parma and Bologna, Modena should be on everyoneâs to-visit list. The city is sparkling clean, colourful and very easy to navigate. If youâre on a trip to Emilia-Romagna, make sure to include it. You wonât regret it, especially if your visit coincides with a football match.
