Attending a match at the Stadio Olimpico in Rome should be right at the top of any calcio aficionado’s bucket list.

The capital’s iconic arena has played host to a long line of unforgettable occasions in its 97-year history, from era-defining Champions League and World Cup finals to sizzling Rome derbies.

Set in the sprawling Foro Italico sports complex to the north-west of the city, it is one of European football’s most emotive and recognisable grounds, sitting under the gaze of the glittering nine-metre Madonna statue atop the Monte Mario hill, erected after World War II to thank the Virgin Mary for sparing the ancient city from ruin.  

Heading towards the ground through nondescript streets as flag-waving fans weave past on beeping scooters, it’s easy to wonder: “Where are they all going?”

That said, it’s not immediately obvious where to go to soak up the best pre-match buzz on a matchday. Heading towards the ground through nondescript streets as flag-waving fans weave past on beeping scooters, it’s easy to wonder: “Where are they all going?”

Fear not, Destination Calcio is here to help.

Partly because the ground is owned by the Italian Olympic Committee and not the clubs, very little occurs outside the ground itself on matchday, beyond a few merchandising stalls flogging shirts and scarves.

Before deciding which of the below options takes your fancy, it is worth stopping to consider two things: 1) whether it’s Roma or Lazio you are going to watch and 2) what part of the stadium you are sitting in.

The reason for the former is simply that supporters of the two clubs congregate in very different areas; knowing the latter will help you avoid frustrating encounters with stubborn stewards and unexpectedly long walks around the vast Foro Italico complex.

Make sure you know whether your access point is from the Stadio dei Marmi (for the Curva Nord and Distinti Nord), the Obelisk (Tribuna Tevere and Distinti Sud), the Viale delle Olimpiadi (Curva Sud) or the Viale dei Gladiatori (Tribuna Monte Mario).

Knowing this in advance could save you a lot of frustration and save you time that you would rather spend inside the ground. Now, on to the options…

Ponte Milvio

If you’re attending a Lazio match, there is only one place to be. The Piazzale di Ponte Milvio, on the northern side of the stunning historic pedestrian bridge it is named after, is where thousands of laziali congregate before every home game.

There are so many places to eat and drink around the piazza that you will have no trouble finding options. The Chioschetto di Ponte Milvio, or ‘little kiosk’ right beside the bridge is a popular spot to grab a takeaway beer before milling around people watching in the sunshine. Just across the road, you will find L’Altro Chiosco, or ‘the other kiosk’, if the first is too busy.

If you prefer to take the weight off your feet, the Roma Beer Company is a good option right in the thick of the action. A gastropub with a range of food and drink options, it has plenty of tables inside and out, but tends to be rammed on matchdays – it is worth booking in advance where possible.

The walk from Ponte Milvio to the Stadio dei Marmi or Obelisk entrances takes about 15 minutes and fans often leave together – if you find things have quietened down, it is probably time to make a move!

To get to the Olimpiadi or Gladiatori entrances from here takes a good while longer, as it involves going all the way down to the southern entrance to the Foro Italico and then back up – make sure to factor in the extra time.  

Welcoming the Roma team bus

As befits their respective Curvas, Roma supporters tend to hang out on the south side of the stadium, and Lazio fans on the north.

Bars all around the city will become particularly animated on Roma matchdays as fans flock in to grab tables and there are plenty of bustling options in the Flaminio and Prati areas to the south and east of the stadium.

A stone’s throw from Ottaviano metro station, one of the tourist epicentres of Rome as the gateway to the Vatican City, sits the modest Tony Bar. This local hangout feels much further from the tourist hordes than its geographical position suggests and is packed with Romanisti before every match spilling onto the street drinking well-priced beers.

Heading northwards up Viale Angelico, you will pass another popular chiosco called Prato, offering open-air drinks in a small green park wedged between two main roads.

At the southern end of the Viale delle Olimpiadi is one of the most popular pre-match spots near the stadium, the bustling Bar della Musica. Serving up cold beers and hot sandwiches, don’t expect Michelin-star produce here, but do expect an unbeatable pre-match buzz, particularly if you get your timings right.  

This is where Roma fans congregate en masse to greet the team bus as it arrives at the stadium, generally 60-90 minutes before kick-off. Being there when the bus arrives, especially for a big match, is a thrilling experience.

Hundreds of fans crowd the street to cheer on the players, waving flags and setting off flares in a noisy, colourful display of passion. For those of a Roma persuasion, it’s sure to be a spine-tingling experience.

What if I want something a bit…calmer?

That can be arranged! Lazio fans heading to Ponte Milvio can easily find calmer spots in the streets around the piazza, while still feeling like they are getting a proper fan experience. Booking a place to eat in advance and settling in is recommended, and you can then head to the ground at your leisure.

Spending your pre-match hours in the Flaminio neighbourhood just across the river is another option, as there are plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants where it is easy to find a seat.

On the eastern side of the pedestrianised Ponte della Musica, for example, the Bar Olimpico Re Sole offers indoor and outdoor seating. Overlooking a leafy piazza, it’s a relaxed place to have a drink or aperitivo before crossing the bridge to the stadium.

To the south of the stadium, busy Australian-themed Down Under is more of a traditional pub. With a relaxed atmosphere and a 2am closing time, it’s a good option for anyone wanting to settle in somewhere close by after full-time.  

For those heading towards the Ottaviano or Lepanto metro stations after a game and looking for late options, Four Green Fields is a renowned neighbourhood pub in Prati that stays open until 2am on weekends.  

Those with a taste for craft beer will enjoy the wide selection at Be.Re. in Piazza del Risorgimento, a beer bar with a built-in Trapizzino outlet serving delicious hot Roman sandwiches. It is also open until 2am every day.

So, there it is. Whether you are a Lazio or Roma fan, looking for somewhere north, south or east of the Stadio Olimpico, seeking an adrenaline-pumping or relaxed vibe, early or late, this guide should ensure you don’t go thirsty on your trip to the Eternal City.