Chances are you may have never heard of Novara, the quaint Italian town wedged between two of the nation’s economic juggernauts. Located on the border between Piedmont and Lombardy, just over an hour’s drive either side of Milan and Turin, it has long been overshadowed by its two bigger neighbours.
But aside from spectacular architecture and delicious food, Novara has plenty to offer. Helpfully, most attractions, culinary or otherwise, are within walking distance in the old town, and the winding Novarese streets are perfect for strolling.
Crucially for football fans, the city’s proximity with Turin and Milan makes it the perfect destination to take on another game for those planning to watch AC Milan, Inter, Juventus or Torino. The Stadio Silvio Piola is the home stadium of Serie C club Novara FC.
A sneaky deviation to Novara’s Stadio Silvio Piola, the former home of Bruno Fernandes, offers calcio junkies a low-cost quick fix with tickets starting at €15 for seats in the Curva Nord and Settore Ospiti.
What to see in Novara
Novara is approximately a 45-minute train ride away from Milan’s Porta Garibaldi station, while the journey from Turin’s Porta Nuova station takes just over an hour. If you’re traveling from Milan, you can also jump on a train at Bovisa station and get off at Novara Nord, which is a two-minute walk from the main rail hub.
Leaving Novara’s main train station, trot through Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi and drop your bags off at the Hotel Cavour, rated 3.9 on Google, and then head uphill on Corso Garibaldi, which takes you to the historic town centre after a five-minute walk.
Your first stop here should be the Basilica of San Gaudenzio, whose 121-metre high dome dominates the landscape for miles and bears a striking resemblance to Turin’s Mole Antonelliana, by virtue of having been designed by the very same architect – Alessandro Antonelli.
The dome was topped by a gilded figure of Christ, which is now housed inside the 17th century cathedral and replaced with a fibre-glass replica. Antonelli is also the architect responsible for the altar in the Duomo of Novara on Piazza Della Republica, which boasts what is considered to be the tallest door in Europe – a must-see for Instagram fans.
Once you leave the Basilica behind, take a stroll down to Piazza Cavour, where you can see the last remnants of Novara’s medieval city walls and then explore Piazza Martiri Della Liberta where the Corn Exchange and the Teatro Coccia lie.
The former served as the place where the price of rice for the whole Italy was determined and its walls still show the signs of the cannonballs fired in 1849 when the Piedmontese army was defeated by the Austrians in the first Italian War of Independence.
Built in the 19th century, meanwhile, Teatro Coccia was once considered one of the most prestigious theatres in Italy, behind La Scala in Milan and La Fenice in Venice.
Where to eat and drink in Novara
But there’s more than just historic architecture to Novara. As is always the case in Italy, food plays a prominent role in the city’s life, but Novara’s low profile (compared with its more famous neighbours) means one seldom has to queue to sample local delicacies.
Bar Pizza La Brace Di Calabro’ Di Giovanni on Via Fratelli Rosselli offers excellent aperitivo options, while the Ristorante Antica Osteria dei Vini on the central Corso Italia makes pasta dishes and risotto its calling card.
The pick of the bunch, however, is arguably the Civico No 27 restaurant, located just down the road on Baluardo La Marmora. Offering traditional piedmontese dishes with a modern twist and comprehensive wine list, it’s only right to treat yourself after a day of exploring Novara.
The pick of the bunch, however, is arguably the Civico No 27 restaurant, located just down the road on Baluardo La Marmora. Offering traditional piedmontese dishes with a modern twist and comprehensive wine list, it’s only right to treat yourself before heading to the stadium.
With ratings between 4 and 5 on Tripadvisor and Google, Civico 27 was recommended to us by the concierge at Hotel Cavour. For under €80, the Destination Calcio Team washed down a Parmigiana, an Insalata Nizzarda, the Ravioli and the Bucatini with some delicious Barolo prior to their pilgrimage to the stadium to see Andriy Shevchenko, Javier Zanetti and Roberto Baggio at the L’Operazione Nostalgia tribute match in July.
And if you fancy something sweet, make sure to head to Gelateria Tiziana on Corso Torino, where you can pick between dozens of flavours. A gelato cup or a two-scoop cone will set you back a very reasonable €4.
Where to watch football in Novara
Novara is also off the beaten track when it comes to football, despite being home to a club that has spent 89 of its 90 years among the professionals. Novara’s last foray in Serie A ended in relegation in 2012 and Gli Azzurri now ply their trade in Serie C, Italian football’s third tier.
Named after Italy legend Silvio Piola, who spent the final seven seasons of his career in Novara and scored 86 goals in 185 league appearances, the ground is located in the San Paolo suburb , a 10-minute cab ride from the main train station or a 35-minute walk. Our cabbie charged us €15 to get there from the taxi rank at Piazza Garibaldi.
Opened in 1976, the stadium holds just under 19,000 fans, and tickets can easily be bought on the gates.
Unusually for Italian grounds, the stadium lacks a running track, which means fans are close to the pitch, but be prepared to be exposed to the elements as three of the four stands are uncovered. We were situated in the Curva Nord during the L’Operazione Nostalgia match, the end where Diego Fuser drove into the bottom corner to beat Sebastian Frey.
Post-match tip: Santa Sofia Kebab and Pizza
Yes, kebabs aren’t the first culinary item you would associate with Italy and, yes, they are something you’d normally get on the way home after one pint too many in Shoreditch. However, courtesy of Italy’s sizeable north African and middle Eastern communities, kebabs (or kebaps as they’re called here) have become increasingly popular on the peninsula.
Located a ten-minute walk from the stadium (Corso Milano 49), Santa Sofia Kebab Ristorante and Pizza makes for a budget-friendly post-match meal, offering a combination of meat kebabs, vegetarian falafels and pizzas at very reasonable prices – the most expensive dish comes in at €12.
Don’t expect a fine dining experience, but if you want proper football scran, this is the place for you.
Tip: Don’t be put off by how small the venue is, the queue moves quickly and there’s a fridge well-stocked with Ichnusa and Moretti if you want to kill some time.
24 Hours in Novara is available on the Destination Calcio Instagram
Watch our Destination Calcio feature from Novara’s Stadio Silvio Piola:
