Destination Calcio feature by Calcio England
Here, in this north-western corner of Italy, the rugged Apennine mountains cascade into the inviting Mediterranean Sea. The city is adorned with pastel-coloured buildings perched on every conceivable ledge, each vying for a glimpse of the crystal waters below. A convolution of tunnels and soaring viaducts connect the districts of this enchanting place.
Known as La Superba, a nickname that requires little translation, Genova flourished as a grand maritime republic during the Middle Ages. Its identity is deeply intertwined with its historic port and relationship with the sea.
Genoa is home to an exceptional collection of Renaissance and Baroque palaces – around 150 of them clustered along Via Garibaldi – constructed by influential aristocratic and merchant families to accommodate their esteemed guests.
In stark contrast to this grandeur, the narrow streets of Genova’s medieval quarter form a mysterious labyrinth. Winding alleyways and shadowy courtyards are illuminated only by shafts of light filtering down from above. For centuries, this area has welcomed maritime visitors from around the globe. The walls here could tell a thousand tales.
Today, Porto Antico (the old port) encapsulates many of the contradictions that define modern Genova. This historic dockside area has been transformed into a thriving space for leisure, complete with luxury yachts, palm trees, restaurants, and attractions. This waterfront paradise is a gathering place for families, devouring gelati and kicking footballs as the sun goes down.
Elegant and serene, it’s entirely possible to forget that just a few meters away, traffic rumbles overhead on a four-lane carriageway. Looking out to the horizon, you will see huge container ships entering the modern port and the funnels of colossal cruise liners bringing a different kind of cargo to the city. The Lanterna (“lighthouse”), a proud emblem that once guided sailors safely home, now stands dwarfed by contemporary life.
Genova’s culinary identity is deeply influenced by its landscape and location. Traditional Genovese cuisine favours seafood and vegetables over meat. The fruits of the sea have always been plentiful here, the pastures for grazing less so.
Historically, the Genovese have skillfully cultivated their steep slopes. One plant that thrives in this warm coastal climate is basil, the key ingredient in Pesto Genovese. This vibrant substance offers a flavour, aroma and texture that bears little resemblance to anything you might find outside the city. Another must-try is Genovese focaccia, best enjoyed warm from one of the many local bakeries. Tear off a piece and turn it upside down to savour the salt first.
Around 130 years ago, Genova’s port served as the birthplace of Italian football. British sailors, stepping off merchant vessels in the late 19th century, introduced the game to Italian shores. The sport was subsequently formalised by Anglo-Saxon expatriates in the city, and a national obsession took hold in the decades that followed.
The city is divided by the fierce rivalry between its two football clubs: Sampdoria and Genoa. The Anglicised Genoa Cricket and Football Club pride themselves on being Italy’s oldest club, viewing Sampdoria as the upstarts; formed through a merger in 1946, although they too can trace their roots back to the 1890s. Sampdoria, in turn, accuse their rivals of living in the past. While Genoa boast nine championship victories, none have come in the last century; Sampdoria’s lone scudetto was earned in 1991.
Make no mistake, this rivalry is one of the most ferocious in Italian football. This territorial battle plays out on street signs, lamp posts, and bridges throughout the city, each embellished with the colours of one team or the other. At the time of visiting, Sampdoria had just emerged from a stadium ban imposed due to violent clashes between the two fanbases during the derby.
The two clubs share the iconic Stadio Luigi Ferraris, a pragmatic solution in a city that makes the most of its space. Italy’s oldest football ground was originally the preserve of Genoa, later reimagined and rebuilt for Italia ‘90, and now earmarked for another renovation ahead of Euro 2032. Nestled on the alluvial plains of the Bisagno River, its striking white steelwork contrasts sharply with the dense residential setting. For fans of a certain age, the stadium’s terracotta towers evoke memories of an intoxicating summer of football in 1990.
The most passionate supporters occupy the Gradinata (“steps”) at either end of the stadium: Sampdoria in the Sud and Genoa in the Nord. The stadium is one of the few historic venues in Italian football without an athletics track, hence no “curva” here. This enhances the intensity of the experience, as fans are close to the pitch, and the steep stands and looming hills beyond create a cauldron-like environment.
Making your way to the stadium from the historic port, you’ll encounter the Gothic Cattedrale di San Lorenzo and the magnificent fountain in Piazza De Ferrari. We highly recommend stopping off at Osteria Le Colonne to sample some Ligurian staples – don’t miss the Brandacujùn – alongside contemporary Italian dishes.
After satisfying your appetite, stroll down the beautifully porticoed Via XX Settembre. Here, luxury goods are advertised on suspended neon signs, a nostalgic throwback to Italy’s economic miracle of the 1950s and 1960s. Continuing toward Genova Brignole Station, the stadium is then a leisurely 25-minute walk along the river.
We arrived at the stadium early, refreshments in hand, to soak up the effervescent atmosphere that builds in the hours before kickoff. Sampdoria’s devoted supporters gather on Via del Piano to meet, eat, and drink. It is also an ideal spot to pick up some unofficial merchandise – stickers, t-shirts, and caps – produced by the ultra groups.
From this vantage point, the sight of over a thousand rowdy Mantova supporters being escorted into the stadium – amid blaring sirens and a vigilant police presence – was a spectacle in its own right.
Inside the ground, the Gradinata Sud began a rousing chorus of the club’s anthem, “Lettera da Amsterdam”. This song tells the poignant tale of a Sampdoria fan living far from Genova: “Tell her that I’ve never betrayed her, that I’ve never forgotten her…”. The stands erupted in a vibrant display of colour and sound as proud Doriani hoisted their scarves and flags overhead, and pyrotechnic smoke billowed into the air as the players emerged. It’s a ritual moment that sent shivers down the spine.
The visiting Mantova fans, tucked high up in the main tribuna, contributed to a cacophonous atmosphere that spanned the full ninety minutes. However, they left disappointed as a resurgent Sampdoria weathered a late storm to take a 1-0 victory.
The Sampdoria faithful have endured a bleak period following their relegation from Serie A, but their passion has never once dimmed. Now, they are beginning to believe once again.
With its blend of sea, mountains, history, architecture, food, and football, Genova truly is a calcio paradise.
Practical Tips:
- There are relatively few direct flights to Genova from the UK; the alternatives are Milan, Pisa and Torino all taking around two hours by road or rail.
- Sampdoria match tickets are sold through vivaticket.it, usually going on sale around 5 days before the game. The Gradinata Sud is sold out to season ticket holders, so that leaves you with the choice of the Gradinata Nord (€15) or Distinti (€30)
- There is no club shop at the stadium, though there are a handful of independent shops around the ground selling official merchandise. The flagship SampCity store is located in the city centre on Via XX Settembre.
- If you are willing to temporarily park club loyalties, the Genoa CFC club museum, located in Porto Antico provides an excellent recital of the early history of Italian football.
- Genova is the gateway to the Italian Riviera – so you can jump on a train to the neighbouring coastal towns of Nervi and Bogliasco or further afield to the Cinque Terre and Portofino.
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