Falling in Love With Como

Como is hardly a hidden gem. Linked to blockbuster movies and celebrity residents (rumour has it that George Clooney shoots hoops with local kids and carries groceries for the nonnas), it’s perfectly reasonable to arrive in the lakeside city loaded with high expectations.

After a smooth forty-minute car ride from Milan Malpensa, I arrived at the Palace Como Hotel with my usual checklist for an Italian escape – great food, friendly locals and that dolce vita feeling I struggle to replicate at home. 

Italy is my city break country of choice and after many trips I’ve become wonderfully spoilt in my nonchalant attitude to what was once a novelty (of course I’m wandering by an ancient Roman ruin while eating artisan gelato). So I was surprised when Como invigorated my inner tourist and had me captivated from the minute I arrived.

Nestled against the foothills of the Alps, you immediately feel the pull of the lake. The third-largest in Italy and one of the deepest in Europe, with a maximum depth of 410 metres (that’s 100 vertically stacked double-decker buses – no, I don’t like thinking about it either) and shaped like an inverted ‘Y’, Como sits at the southwestern tip.

Even on a rainy day the lake calls your name, drawing you in as your eyes take in the sight of hundreds of villas nestled next to each other from the shores to the hills, ranging from sprawling historical villas to modest (yet still remarkable) homes.

Luckily, the sun was beating down on the water and after quickly unpacking, I ducked into Al Molo, a popular gelateria and bar situated opposite the train station, to pick up a takeaway Aperol Spritz to sip on whilst meandering down the Lungolago.

On any given day the lakeside pathway is filled with gelato-tasting pedestrians, joggers and perhaps the odd fellow Spritzer (I like to think that I inspired a few people to follow suit).

After devouring a pizza at Fratelli Coppola, I headed towards the town centre to walk off my Neopolitan feast. 

I envy those still to see the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta for the first time. Standing proudly in the Piazza del Duomo the vast white marble facade is impossibly ornate with gothic features paired with Romanesque, Renaissance and Baroque elements. With a Latin Cross floor plan, the inside is as captivating as the exterior. To experience the full effect, I recommend taking a seat at Da Pietro and sipping on a glass of Prosecco as you soak up the atmosphere.

Three days later, I was still in awe of this city and its beautiful architecture, sprawling streets, luxury shops and fantastic restaurants. The lake somehow became more beautiful every night and my post-dinner evening walks weren’t once tiresome.

Just when I thought it couldn’t get better, I secured tickets to a Como game – an experience unlike any other stadium visit.  

As I headed up the stairs to the main stand I wasn’t expecting to be met with an incredible view of the lake complete with a plane flying impossibly low, scooping up water as it soared by. If a movie experience was what I was expecting, Como certainly delivered. Home fans decked in blue and white surrounded me with the rowdy away fans to the right. 

With a 2-1 win against Bari, it was an incredible experience that left me craving my next calcio hit. 

With hiking, water activities and boat trips to the surrounding towns and villages on offer, there are so many reasons to return to Como again and again.

In fact, I’m already planning my next visit…