Parma Playbook: Your Unrivalled Experience With One of the Seven Sisters

Calcio fans of a certain vintage will fondly remember Parma in the 1990s and star attractions such as Gigi Buffon, Hernan Crespo, Tomas Brolin and Fabio Cannavaro.

Those glory days may be long gone but there is still plenty to see and do on a football trip to this historical city in Emilia-Romagna.

Here is the lowdown.

Where To Stay

Between its quiet historic streets, gentle atmosphere and legendary culinary pedigree, Parma offers a chance to step off the usual tourist track and experience a slice of Italy that feels lived-in, real and unhurried. The second-biggest city in the region, behind Bologna, is home to just over 200,000 people, compact and fairly walkable.

There are two main areas to choose from as your base. Centro Storico (where you’ll find Piazza Garibaldi and the cathedral) is best for first-time visitors: within walking distance of the main sights, historic squares, shops, restaurants and cafes.

Across the river is Oltretorrente: a bohemian neighbourhood with a more local, lived-in feel, and a short walk or easy transit into the heart of the city. Great if you want a slightly less touristy stay and still only a 30-minute walk to Stadio Ennio Tardini.

We stayed at the Novotel Parma Centro on Via Trento and would certainly go back. In late 2025, a double room was €127 per night, and as well as everything you would expect from a budget-friendly, city-centre hotel, it also boasts a rooftop pool.

The Hotel Stendhal in the heart of the city on Via Giambattista Bodoni has four stars and marries elegance with rustic charm while there is also a good selection of rentals available on Airbnb.

Where To Eat

Parma was the first Italian city to be granted the prestigious UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy status in 2015 and is most famous for Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and prosciutto di Parma ham. Unlike Rome and Milan, you won’t find restaurant touts trying to usher you inside with photos of the dishes. Instead, expect to see family-run eateries packed full of locals.

Parma Calcio’s president Kyle Krause has been known to dine at Trattoria Sorelle Picchi on Str Luigi Carlo Farini (we were on the next table recently). Hugely popular, this restaurant not only has excellent service and a lively atmosphere, but the food is up there with the best we tasted in the region. A traditional menu boasts all of the favourites – generous servings of cold cuts, tortellini d’erbe, braised pork cheek. With pasta starting at €16 and dishes such as braised crispy duck leg priced at €18, you can’t go wrong.

Ristorante Gallo d’Oro is on a side street off Via Farini in the city centre and prides itself on Emilian cuisine. Prices are fairly standard for this part of the country, with traditional food from the region costing around €12 for primi, while a secondi costs between €12-€22. Their gourmet section has ravioli, risotto and spaghetti alla chitarra all at around €16-€19, while a platter of fine prosciutto di Parma is well worth the €13.

Another top choice is Osteri dei Servi in Piazza Ghiaia, a fine-dining establishment that serves local Parmigiani fare. It is slightly more expensive and the truly wonderful homemade pappardelle with wild boar ragu, flavoured with Lambrusco, came in at €16.50. Horse meat, a Parmesan speciality, is worth trying.

If there is a queue at Da Pepen on Vicolo Sant’Ambrogio, do not be put off. It moves quickly, and the arrosto spaccaballe is hard to beat – a proper Italian sandwich.

Where To Drink

Tabarro on Str Luigi Carlo Farini is a must-visit for wine lovers. With a huge selection of cheeses and cold cuts it is the perfect place for people watching while sampling the products that put Parma on the culinary map. Enjoy a platter of salumi and formaggi washed down with a glass of red or white.

For more of a football feel, Birreria Underground on Via dei Farnese is a no-frills pub with local craft and international beer, as well as burgers and sandwiches.

Post-match, the J Roger Speakeasy on Agli Ospizi Civili is a cosy venue serving cocktails of every kind. Ring the bell to enter and step back in time to the prohibition era. This is a pricier option with cocktails starting at around €12.

Don’t Forget

Tickets – Can be bought online via Vivaticket. You need to register an account before making a purchase. Match tickets normally go on sale about a week before.

Kick-off times will be moved for television, so bear that in mind when arranging a trip far in advance.

Merchandise – You can buy Parma gear online through their official store and the club has a shop in the centre of the city at Piazzale Risorgimento 1/A.

Museum – Parma’s museum – the Ernesto Ceresini Museo – is at the Stadio Ennio Tardini. It is normally closed on Thursdays and Sundays but is open on matchdays, so check first.

Did You Know?

Parma was one of the ‘seven sisters’ of the 1990s, a term given to the sides competing for the Scudetto. Juventus, Inter, Milan, Roma, Lazio and Fiorentina completed the family.

Getting There

The journey from the city centre to the Tardini is no problem. You can walk from the station in under 20 minutes and there is also a bus service.

Getting to Parma itself is a little trickier but still very doable. The airport is close to the city but offers more of a regional service, so many foreign visitors will fly to Bologna, which is around 80km away. The quickest way from there is to get to Bologna Centrale and a train from there to Parma takes an hour.

Need Another Football Fix?  

Bologna at the Stadio Dall’Ara is always worth a visit as their stadium is rather special, while Modena, currently in Serie B, is an hour away in the other direction.