Lazio Playbook: Your Unrivalled Experience Watching the Biancocelesti

Rome. The Eternal City. The capital of Italy. 

Two football teams play in the heart of the old Roman Empire and here is the lowdown if it is Lazio you are keen to see.

Where To Stay

To be close to the nightlife, look no further than Trastevere in the west of the city. Known for its pubs and restaurants it is ideal if you want to enjoy a late-night drink. There are several foreign universities there, meaning a large student presence. 

Monti is central, close to the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Trevi Fountain. Famous for its cobblestone streets and bohemian vibe, it is perfect for first-time visitors, given its proximity to everything.

If convenience is the priority, the area around Roma Termini train station is an option. It is more residential and away from the hustle and bustle of the packed centre, but don’t expect the beauty Rome is known for. This is a more gritty version of the city, especially at night.

Where To Eat

Tonnarello and Nannarella are restaurants in Trastevere that are popular for good reason. Serving up Roman dishes and some of the best pasta you will ever eat, the queues may be long, but they make the first bite taste all the better.

In Tonnarello, be sure to order the Amatriciana – pasta in a sweet tomato sauce, with chilli, salty pecorino, and succulent pork (€13). In Nannarella go for the Carciofo (crispy Roman artichoke) to start; the petals are the perfect blend of sweet, crunchy and gooey. Order more than one portion to avoid any fights over who gets the last piece.

Osteria da Fortunata is a century-old establishment in the heart of Rome, in Campo de Fiori, a bustling piazza filled with bars and eateries. It also serves amazing pasta, made fresh at the front of the restaurant and costing €14-€18. There is often a queue but it is worth the wait.

Remo Pizzeria in Testaccio is an institution. Roman-style pizzas are thin, crispy and crunchier than their Neapolitan counterpart. Expect to spend €8-€10 on a pizza.

If you want something a little more upmarket and fancy a carbonara – a true Roman staple – then Flavio al Velavevodetto on Via di Monte Testaccio is worth a visit. Be prepared to pay around €30-€40 each while booking in advance is a good idea given how busy it gets, especially at weekends.

Where To Drink

There is no shortage of bars in Rome, but when searching for the pre-match buzz, it is not immediately obvious where to find it. Some places are more popular with Roma fans, while it helps to find somewhere handy for the area of the stadium you are in. Lazio fans tend to congregate on the north side of the Olimpico.

Rome-based journalist Alasdair Mackenzie says “if you are attending a Lazio match there is only one place to be“. The Piazzale di Ponte Milvio, on the northern side of the stunning historic pedestrian bridge it is named after, is where thousands of laziali congregate before every home game. There are many places to eat and drink around the piazza. The Chioschetto di Ponte Milvio, or ‘little kiosk’ right beside the bridge is a popular spot to grab a takeaway beer before milling around, people watching in the sunshine. Just across the road you will find L’Altro Chiosco, or ‘the other kiosk’, if the first is too busy.

Olimpico Re Sole in the Flaminio area has indoor and outdoor seating and is a nice place to have a drink before crossing the bridge to the stadium.

Post-match, the Australian-themed Down Under to the south of the Olimpico is good, more of a traditional pub and open late.

Don’t Forget

Tickets – Can be bought through the club website as long as you register with Vivaticket. Tickets start at around €30 for the Curva Nord/Sud but rise depending on where you want to sit. The club also sells two-game packages and hospitality deals.

Tickets can also be bought in several shops around Rome, including the Lazio Style 1900 Propaganda store on Via di Propaganda in the heart of the city.

Kick-off times will be moved for television, so bear that in mind when arranging a trip far in advance.

Merchandise – You can buy Lazio merchandise online via their official store. You can also buy Lazio gear at several club shops dotted around the city, with one close to the Stadio Olimpico on via Guglielmo Calderini.

Stadium Tour – You can buy tickets for a tour on Vivaticket at €17 for adults and €12 for children.

Did You Know? 

In 1999 Lazio won the last ever European Cup Winners’ Cup, beating Real Mallorca at Villa Park, England.

Getting There

Getting to the centre of Rome from Fiumicino Airport is easy. The Leonardo Express will have you at Roma Termini within half an hour and costs around €14.

From Ciampino Airport, the best option is a shuttle bus which takes 45 minutes and costs €6.

There is no metro to the stadium. If taking the underground from the city centre the nearest stop is Lepanto or Flaminio on Line A. From there take a bus or tram No 2 to reach the area surrounding the Olimpico.

If you feel like stretching your legs the walk from Flaminio is about 40 minutes.

Need Another Football Fix?  

There is no chance of watching the two capital sides at home on one weekend as Lazio and Roma are never at the Olimpico in the same round of fixtures.

Frosinone are in Serie B and a train from Roma Termini will have you there in under an hour. Tickets cost about €5 .