Trattoria alla Madonna… Serving Venice in Style Since the 1950s
By Emmet Gates
Trattoria alla Madonna’s roots in Venice stretch back more than 70 years – and for those seven decades it has kept the same style and stuck to tradition. No wonder celebrities love it.
Located a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge, it was opened by Fulvio Rado in 1954 and passed down to his son Lucio. Specialising in Venetian cuisine, there is a dedication to keeping local dishes alive, made easier by its closeness to the fish market.
There’s an old-school feel to it, in keeping with family tradition, and the odd famous face has been known to pop in, Stanley Tucci among them.
We were there more recently than Stanley and for starters had a baccala mantecato con polenta (creamy whipped cod served on warm cornmeal polenta). The fish was nicely cooked while the polenta was warm but not over done, making for a truly delightful antipasto.

Next up was another Venetian classic in spaghetti al nero di seppia (spaghetti with cuttlefish and black ink). This dish can also be traced back to Sicily, but the difference is the lack of tomatoes in the Venetian variant. The bits of cuttlefish peppered throughout the spaghetti was just enough and complimented the black ink sauce nicely.
The cotoletta alla Milanese con patatine (Milan-style veal cutlet with chips) while not local was just as delicious and washed down with a bottle of ice cold Birra Moretti, perfect when the temperature lifts in the lagoon and restaurants get a little too warm inside.
Three courses and a drink was under €60 per head and while you perhaps pay a little extra for the more authentic feel of the restaurant, the experience is like stepping into the Italy of yesteryear. Once done, walk off your meal around Piazza San Marco, a 10-minute stroll away.
Address: Calle della Madonna, 594, San Polo VE. Open: Every day except Wednesday, 12pm-3pm, 7pm-10pm.
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