From Carbonara to Maritozzo… Five Roman Dishes and Where to Try Them

Rome is a city where history is found in the dishes served up day in, day out. For those making the pilgrimage to the Stadio Olimpico – perhaps to soak up the feverish atmosphere of the Derby della Capitale or a Roma or Lazio home fixture – eating well is as much a part of the matchday ritual as the pre-kickoff tifo spectacles.

Roman cuisine is famously grounded in cucina povera (peasant cooking), where a few humble ingredients are whipped up into mouthwatering meals. If you’re visiting to watch a game, here are five unmissable Roman dishes and where to try them.

Carbonara

You haven’t had a real carbonara until you’ve eaten one in Rome. Creamy (due to the sauce being emulsified), peppery and slightly al dente, this should be at the top of your Roman food list.

In the winding, cobblestone heart of Trastevere, Tonnarello has earned its reputation as a heavyweight of Roman comfort food. They swap standard spaghetti for tonnarelli, a thick, square-cut egg pasta with enough body to carry the rich emulsion of egg yolk and pecorino romano. The dish arrives in a rustic copper pan, topped with shards of guanciale (pork cheek) that are fried until they offer a glass-like crunch. It is a boisterous, high-energy spot that often has large queues, but it’s well worth the wait.

Amatriciana

Amatriciana is one of the four classic Roman pastas (along with cacio e pepe, carbonara and alla gricia) and is the only dish made with a tomato base. With sweetness from San Marzano tomatoes and the sharp, salty kick of aged sheep’s cheese, there’s a reason why this is a weekly staple for Romans.

A short stroll from the fountains of Piazza Navona leads you to Taverna de’ Pasquino, a traditional trattoria that is known for their excellent amatriciana. It’s an ideal spot for a long, slow lunch before heading north toward the stadium.

Carciofi alla giudia (Roman artichoke)

Originating in the Jewish community of Rome, this dish is steeped in history. Artichokes are trimmed by hand and deep-fried whole until the outer leaves become shatteringly crisp, yet the inside remains buttery. The contrast between the salty, chip-like exterior and the tender heart makes this dish utterly morish.

The Jewish Ghetto remains one of Rome’s most atmospheric quarters and is the only place to try this iconic dish. Head to Ba’Ghetto, set along the historic Via del Portico d’Ottavia, for a taste of the city’s ancient multicultural roots.

Coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew)

To eat like a local, you must visit Testaccio, the city’s original butchery district. Lo Scopettaro is a legendary cellar restaurant that feels like a time capsule, specialising in the ‘fifth quarter’ cuts that defined Roman working-class life.

Their coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew), a classic Roman offal dish, is braised for hours with celery, tomatoes, and a hint of cocoa to deepen the sauce. The meat pulls away from the bone with the slightest nudge of a fork, offering a rich, warming flavour that serves as the ultimate culinary hug after a cold evening in the stands.

Maritozzo

Maritozzo is a soft, brioche-style bun sliced open and filled to bursting point with lightly sweetened whipped cream. While it looks indulgent, the dough is airy and infused with subtle notes of honey and citrus. It is a messy, glorious tradition that offers a glimpse into the everyday life of the Esquilino neighbourhood, away from the typical tourist trails.

For a true Roman breakfast or a mid-afternoon pick-me-up, head to Pasticceria Regoli. Located near Vittorio Emanuele, this historic pastry shop has been a local fixture since 1916.