The Gold of Genoa: Mastering the Art of Farinata in Boccadasse

In Genoa, a city that erupts from the rugged Ligurian mountains only to plunge headlong into the Mediterranean, the pastel-perfect fishing village of Boccadasse feels like an intimate discovery.

Located at the tail end of the Corso Italia promenade, this ancient mariners’ quarter is a defiant pocket of serenity. It is strikingly similar to a Cinque Terre town – beautiful, picturesque, and plucked straight from a postcard – yet it remains anchored to the grit of Genoa.

If Boccadasse is the visual soul of Genoa, then farinata is its taste. It’s a dish that defies the complexity of modern cooking: chickpea flour, water, salt, and a scorching hot oven. As any local will tell you, the simpler the ingredients, the harder it is to perfect.

Ligurian soil is notoriously resistant to cultivating wheat-based grains, so locals perfected non-wheat alternatives, milling chickpeas or chestnuts into flour and creating pasta dough alternatives suited to their region. And thus, farinata was born.

For a true education in this Ligurian gold, we headed into the kitchen of Antico Borgo, a fixture of the Boccadasse shoreline for two decades

Federico, who grew up here, explains how he was raised on a steady diet of pizza, focaccia, and farinata – breakfast, lunch, and dinner – and that lifelong obsession shows in the kitchen. While the menu covers the Genoese hits, including the legendary cheese-filled focaccia from Recco, it’s the farinata that serves as the local litmus test.

Watching the process of creating this Ligurian dish is a bit like observing a high-stakes science experiment. Federico explained that it all starts with a simple batter of chickpea flour, water, salt, oil and yeast. At Antico Borgo, they still use stone-ground flour – a commitment to authenticity.

The secret is the intense heat and precise timing – the mixture goes into the oven at a blistering temperature and cooks for exactly seven to eight minutes. The result is a dish that Federico describes as uniquely Genoese.

While purists stick to the classic version, the kitchen isn’t afraid to experiment. They serve variations with different topping options, including sausage, spring onion, gorgonzola, stracchino, stracciatella or pesto.

Where to try farinata

Antico Borgo (Boccadasse): At this family-run favourite, Federico and his team serve a thin, crispy farinata made from stone-ground chickpea flour that is best enjoyed with a dollop of pesto and a view of the bay.

Trattoria Tralalêro (City Centre): This atmospheric spot near the main station offers a warm, traditional vibe with red walls and wooden décor, perfect for tucking into authentic regional dishes like farinata and pesto gnocchi.

Sa’ Pesta (Historical Centre): One of the city’s legendary sciamadde, this historic shop is famous for its massive wood-burning ovens where golden farinata has been baked to perfection for generations.