Porticoes, Towers and Calcio’s Architectural Wonder: Bologna Matchday Guide

Bologna is a city of nicknames: La Grassa (The Fat) for its world-class food, La Rossa (The Red) for its terracotta rooftops and political history, and La Dotta (The Learned) for housing the western world’s oldest university. But on a Saturday in Emilia-Romagna, as the smell of ragù begins to waft through the medieval alleys past the towers, and the first flashes of Rossoblù scarves appear, Bologna belongs entirely to the beautiful game.

While Florence has its Renaissance charm, Bologna offers a grit and soul that is best experienced on foot. From the world’s longest porticoes to the ancient operating theatres of the Archiginnasio, here is how to spend a matchday in Italy’s culinary capital before heading to the Stadio Renato Dall’Ara.

Start the day with… a caffè at Gamberini

Your day begins at Pasticceria Gamberini on Via Ugo Bassi. Established in 1907, this is Bologna’s oldest bakery and the city’s undisputed temple of breakfast. Forget a seated affair; do as the Bolognesi do and find a spot at the long, polished brass bar.

Order a caffè and a brioche artigianale – the pistachio cream here is legendary. As the light hits the crystal chandeliers, you’ll get your first taste of the city’s quiet elegance before the matchday chaos begins.

Go and see… the Porticoes

You don’t need an umbrella in Bologna. The city is defined by its 62 kilometres of porticoes, a UNESCO World Heritage feature that dates back to the 11th century. Originally built to expand living space for the growing university population without blocking the streets, they are now one of the city’s best features.

Walk off breakfast with a stroll towards Piazza Maggiore. Look up at the varying styles: from the medieval wooden pillars of Casa Isolani to the high, vaulted ceilings of the Pavaglione. These arches are the city’s veins, keeping fans dry and spirits high regardless of the weather.

Explore… Teatro Anatomico

Continue your walk to the Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio to visit the Teatro Anatomico. Built in 1637, this stunning room, carved entirely from spruce, was where the university’s medical students once watched human dissections.

Keep an eye out for the Spellati (The Skinned Man), two incredible life-sized anatomical statues that flank the professor’s chair. It’s a hauntingly beautiful reminder of Bologna’s status as a global hub of knowledge.

Grab food at… Trattoria Da Me

You are in La Grassa, so lunch is a non-negotiable. Trattoria da Me is tucked away on Via San Felice and offers the perfect balance of tradition and modern flair. Chef Elisa Rusconi has kept her grandfather’s legacy alive (the restaurant first opened in 1937), but with a twist.

Order Cotoletta all Bolognese (veal breaded and topped with prosciutto and lashings of Parmigiano cream) or their legendary tortellini. Exactly what you need to fuel the 30-minute trek to the stadium.

Get the pre-match buzz… near the stadium

As evening approaches, the energy shifts towards the Saragozza district with a sea of fans making their way to the Stadio Renato Dall’Ara and its famous tower. The route itself is iconic, following the Portico di San Luca, which stretches from the city walls to the Meloncello arch near the ground.

Stop at Bar Dalla (Via Andrea Costa), for a quick drink (if you’re lucky enough to grab a spot).

Celebrate victory at… Bar Tito

Win, lose, or draw, the final whistle doesn’t mean the night is over. To truly cap off a matchday in the Rossoblu spirit, head to the Cirenaica district to find Bar Tito (Via Giuseppe Bentivogli).

While it’s a bit of a trek from the stadium, this is the spiritual home of the Bologna faithful. It is a glorious, nostalgic time capsule where the walls are a mosaic of football history – think Italia 90 memorabilia, signed shirts, and scarves commemorating the club’s 2025 Coppa Italia triumph.