How Calcio Fans Can Copy Atalanta’s Lone Scotsman and Experience Unforgettable Away Days in Italy

As Kenan Yildiz fired home his second goal to draw Juventus level in a sensational Derby d’Italia last month, the majority of the San Siro fell silent.

Stunned at seeing Inter throw away a 4-2 lead, all inside the old ground sat quietly comprehending what they’d just witnessed. All, that is, except for a small pocket housed high in the Milan night sky. 

In the away end black and white pandemonium was playing out. A surge of energy jolted supporters into life, strangers hugged strangers, guttural roars emanated from both young and old in a sea of euphoria as they celebrated the most unlikely of comebacks in the most bonkers of matches. 

The scene is one of calcio’s most enticing elements. Flags waving, scarves raised, unabating chanting. There are few better sights and sounds inside stadiums up and down Italy than an away end in full voice.

Supporters bring the passion and the noise week in, week out travelling long distances just to support their team for 90 minutes. The pageantry can be intoxicating and can leave some football aficionados keen to experience it all. The good news? You can.

That much was proved earlier this month when 36-year-old Scotsman Steven Faughnan was the only supporter to secure a ticket in the away end for Atalanta’s scintillating 3-0 victory over Napoli at the Diego Maradona stadium.

Here, Destination Calcio breaks down how you can follow your favourite team around Italy.

Fidelity Cards

The Premier League in England is well known for having vocal away ends, with the size of the country lending itself to relatively easy journeys for fans.

In the top flight, away tickets are controlled by the visiting team, leading to systems where season ticket holders and those on priority and loyalty schemes get preferential treatment.

In Italy there is one big difference – the home team controls all tickets for matches. This means they set the parameters for being able to access tickets, not their opponents.

There is one item you will need when purchasing away tickets and that is a fidelity card. Each club offers their own and these are generally free and in a digital format – so you needn’t worry about ever losing it. There are also no restrictions on picking up fidelity cards from more than one club, so you can sample away ends across Italy until your heart’s content.

Some of the bigger clubs in Italy will attach a fee to their cards – for example Milan’s CRN card comes with a €5 charge and shipping fee – but others, such as Como and Genoa, allow you to sign up for free.

When looking to attend matches in an away end there is one website to keep an eye on, though. Each week the Ministry of the Interior in Italy identify matches which they consider to be at risk of disorder. These matches are listed on a public document, which also lists the restrictions imposed on ticket sales for those fixtures.

More often than not, these will involve the biggest teams in the country, with Juventus, Milan and Inter invariably having their matches flagged. The measures implemented on these matches usually include geographical restrictions on who can purchase tickets, in order to prevent fans of away clubs from buying tickets in the home end.

That being said, the vast majority of matches up and down the divisions don’t make their way on to the list, and, with a fidelity card to your name, getting your hands on a ticket is a possibility.

To access ticket sales, visit the website of the home side, and follow the directions on purchasing in the visiting tribune. Some clubs, such as Juventus, have their own in-house ticketing system, while many use Viva Ticket. When selecting the section you wish to sit in, the site will notify you as to which section is for away fans, accompanied by a prompt to insert your fidelity card details.

One thing to bear in mind however when braving the away end is to have an air of caution about you. Away fans are usually escorted by police in order to avoid possible confrontations with home fans, and while there is nothing to stop you from entering the away end on your own, it’s advisable to hide any colours or scarves you may be wearing.

Be aware that leaving any ground from an away end may not be as swift as you’d hope either. Away supporters are often kept behind to allow home fans to disperse and are sometimes stuck in their section for an hour or more in order for authorities to ensure the coast is clear.

At least if you have a memorable away win to savour, the wait won’t feel as long.