Sassuolo Playbook: Your Unrivalled Experience Watching the Neroverdi

Reggio Emilia is the home of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, the birthplace of the Italian flag, and a city with a rich history.

It is also one of several places in Italy with two teams. But this situation is a bit complicated.

Sassuolo have called the Mapei Stadium home since 2013, when their owner Giorgio Squinzi bought the ground after local side Reggiana slipped into financial difficulty. Now Reggiana are effectively tenants in a ground they used to own.

Sassuolo the town is 40 minutes away but for Sassuolo the team, Reggio Emilia is their home from home.

So, if you are planning a trip to watch the Neroverdi, here is the lowdown.

Where To Stay

Reggio Emilia is relatively small and easy to explore, which makes the old town an ideal location for first-time visitors as it provides access to historic landmarks such Piazza Prampolini and the Duomo, and is still close enough to the train station.

Compared with nearby heavy-hitters Bologna and Modena, Reggio Emilia is not a tourist hotbed. Nevertheless there are options for accommodation in the old town, from budget friendly Airbnbs to high-end hotels.

If you want something slightly trendier, try the San Pellegrino neighbourhood which boasts bars and shops.

Where To Eat

Even by Italian standards you are spoilt for choice for delicious food in Reggio Emilia. Il Pozzo in the old town serves local staples such as tortelli verdi – stuffed pasta similar to ravioli, filled with spinach and ricotta – for €14, and pasta rasa – a thick, comforting soup or broth containing tiny pieces of pasta or simple dumplings and shredded Parmigiano cheese. And there’s about 400 labels on the wine list.

Traditional Emilian food is also the calling card of A’marcord. In the local dialect this translates as ‘I remember’ and this gem of a restaurant, which specialises in local delicacies, really is unforgettable. Treat yourself to a bowl of fresh pasta starting from €10 or tuck into some pork cheek cooked in Lambrusco. It doubles up as a deli so taking away is an option.

A short walk away is Terme del Colesterolo – the cholesterol spa for those wondering – a favourite with locals and visitors. From lasagne filled with slow roasted pork, handmade tortelli stuffed with sausage, to a pulled pork stew and ribs… for meat and craft beer, this is the place. Mains start at €12.

Vicolo del Gusto is still in the town but slightly off the beaten track. Here, the gnocco fritto – fried gnocchi – is excellent, as is the tortelli stuffed with potatoes and mushrooms. Mains start at €10.

Where To Drink

Right in the middle of Reggio Emilia, the House of Sauvages is the perfect place to grab a spritz and watch the world go by and the same can be said for Deridie in Piazza Fontanesi.

At the southern end of the old town is Casafrida, a deli-meets-wine bar sort of place, and the perfect setting for a glass of Lambrusco.

The wonderfully named Arrogant Pub has an excellent selection of craft beers, while Bottiglieria San Giovanni, just off the square with the same name, does a great job of showcasing some of the local breweries, as does Le Mille e Una Birra, a bottle shop where you can drink on the premises or take away. Ideal for matchday.

Don’t Forget

Tickets – Sassuolo tickets are available on the club website, at authorised Vivaticket selling points in the city and at the Mapei Stadium on matchdays. You can also purchase tickets at the official Sassuolo Store in Piazza Garibaldi in Sassuolo.

When picking up tickets at the stadium or ticket office, remember ID and leave a bit of time as collection offices can get busy.

Kick-off times will be moved for television, so bear that in mind when arranging a trip far in advance.

Merchandise – Official Sassuolo gear can be purchased on the club website or at the official Sassuolo Store in Piazza Garibaldi in Sassuolo, which is open Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday between 9:30am and 1pm and 3:30pm to 7:30pm. The store is also open between 3:30pm and 7:30pm on Monday and between 9:30am and 1pm on Thursday.

Top tip – You can still just about visit the Stadio Mirabello, Reggiana’s old stadium. All that remains of the ground is one stand after the terraces were knocked down. The Mirabello is also the site of a memorial to the victims of the Heysel Stadium disaster, where 39 fans lost their lives following trouble before the European Cup final between Juventus and Liverpool.

One of those victims, a photographer called Claudio Zavaroni, was from Reggio Emilia and his name features along with that of the other 38 victims on the memorial, which was built 1991 using crush barriers from the stadium in Brussels. The barriers were painted in the colour of the Italian flag, a nod to a tragedy that left a scar at the core of a nation and to the fact Reggio Emilia is the birthplace of the green, white and red tricolour.

Did You Know?

Founded in 1920, Sassuolo spent most of their first eight decades in amateur football before reaching Serie C for the first time in 2006.

Getting There

Remember, Reggio Emilia is a 45-minute train ride from Sassuolo. It is just under 90 minutes from Bologna.

Need Another Football Fix?

Emilia-Romagna is one of calcio’s heartlands. If you are in Reggio Emilia for longer than a weekend, you can watch both Sassuolo and Reggiana (in Serie C from 2026-27) at home, if you plan your trip around a midweek set of fixtures. Otherwise, Bologna and Parma boast Serie A clubs and are just over 90 minutes away while Modena is a 45-minute train ride.