Genoa Playbook: Your Unrivalled Experience Watching Italy’s Oldest Club

Italy’s busiest port, the capital of one of the most powerful maritime republics for over seven centuries and the birthplace of jeans… Genoa certainly has a rich history.

It is also home to calcio’s oldest institution, with Genoa founded by English sailors in 1893 as a cricket and football club.

From how to get tickets to where to eat and drink, plus everything in between, this guide has got you covered ahead of your trip to watch the Rossoblu.

Where To Stay

Genoa is small compared to Milan or Rome so the old town and the area around the port can get a bit cramped. Yet they are far enough from the stadium that you will need public transport to get to the Stadio Luigi Ferraris.

Boccadasse, on the other hand, offers a much more relaxed vibe in an idyllic setting by the sea. An old fishing village, the area is now part of the city and just a 15-minute cab ride from the main train station and about the same from Marassi.

With its quaint bars and traditional restaurants, Boccadasse is a favourite with locals and tourists but never feels overwhelmingly chaotic. And while Genoa also caters to high-end travellers, it is a lot more down to earth compared to some of Italy’s more famous destinations, meaning there are plenty of options across every price range in terms of hotels, Airbnbs and hostels.

Where To Eat

In the historic harbour between Via Pre’ and Via Gramsci by the Galata Sea Museum, the Trattoria dell’Acciughetta describes itself as one of the smallest and craziest trattorias in the city.

The menu focuses on fresh fish while dishes offer a modern take on Genoese tradition, as does Il Genoese on Via Galata. First opened in 1912, this restaurant is a Genoese institution, serving local favourites. Prices start at around €13 for a delicious plate of trofie with pesto, one of the staples of the local cuisine.

You cannot go to Genoa without trying the traditional focaccia and farinata and there are few better places than Antico Forno della Casana in Vico della Casana. Since opening in 2004, this gem of a focacceria has developed into one of the best in Genoa, amid some very stiff competition. Be aware, however, it is closed on Sundays.

Where To Drink

Take your pick from just about any of the bars that line the Centro Storico, Genoa’s old town. If stylish and cosy wine and cocktail bars are your thing, try Cantine Matteotti or Posta Vecchia, but if you prefer a more relaxed pub atmosphere then head to La Pinta, a craft beer haven that shows live sport on several screens.

If you want to make the most of the relaxed atmosphere in Boccadasse, try La Strambata, one of Genoa’s classic Friday-night haunts. A tiny seafaring-style bar allows you to recharge your batteries with a spritz in one of the city’s most iconic locations. Or grab a pint at nearby Lo Strambunger and sip on a Belgian ale in one of Genoa’s most picturesque spots.

It is worth getting to Marassi early for the pre-match buzz, as the home of Genoa and Sampdoria remains one of the greatest sights in Italian football. Roxy Bar is a stone’s throw from the Stadio Luigi Ferraris and is a meeting point for Genoa and Sampdoria fans, who congregate on the steps of the nearby Scalinata Montaldo to sip spritz and beers before the short walk to the ground. A bottle of lager will set you back €3-€4 and if you are in town for an early kick-off, you can always ditch the ale for a double espresso instead, which comes in at a shade north of €2.

Bar Sport is a Marassi institution, much like owner Orazio. It is a five-minute walk from the stadium and regularly packed with Sampdoria and Genoa fans on matchdays. There’s a good array of draught beers (which will cost you €5-€6) and of course, the Campari spritz. This is also the perfect place to come if you want to watch a game before heading to Marassi as it too has several big screens.

Don’t Forget

Tickets – You don’t need to be a Genoa member to buy tickets, but if you want to experience the atmosphere in either of the two Gradinata be aware these tickets are snapped up quickly. You can buy tickets online via Genoa’s official website or at the ticket office just outside Marassi and at the Genoa ticket office in the Porto Antico area by the docks. Hospitality packages are also available through the club’s official website.

If picking up tickets at the stadium or at the ticket office, remember ID and leave a bit of time as there is only a small collection office.

Kick-off times will be moved for television, so bear that in mind when arranging a trip far in advance.

Merchandise – All merchandise can be bought online on Genoa’s official website or at the Genoa Store in Via XX Settembre or at the Porto Antico.

Museum – Located in the Porto Antico, Il Museo del Genoa is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am until 7pm. A standard adult ticket is €20. There is also a club shop and a ticket office on site.

Did You Know?

Founded by English sailors, Genoa are extremely proud of their roots and You’ll Never Walk Alone rings around Marassi before kick-off.

Getting There

Genoa airport to the centre of town is about 25 minutes on a bus, with tickets costing €4. Flights from the UK however, tend to be more infrequent than connections to Milan, Bologna and Pisa, which are all within two hours on the train.

Need Another Football Fix

With fierce rivals Genoa and Sampdoria inhabiting different divisions for the time being, you can catch both at home on the same weekend.

Alternatively, take yourself down to Chiavari, a 30-minute drive away, to watch Virtus Entella. They play in Argentina-inspired kits in one of the smallest stadiums in the top two tiers.