Lewis Ferguson’s Best of Bologna… Captain Names his Favourite Restaurants

When we interviewed Lewis Ferguson last season at Bologna’s training ground, he told us what he missed most about Scotland.

“Irn-Bru and square sausage. Every time my family comes over, I tell them to buy some bottles in the airport.”

The Bologna captain said it with the cheeky grin of a man well aware it would sound ridiculous while he was living in one of Italy’s food capitals.

From lasagne, tortellini and tagliatelle al ragu to delicious cheeses, tigelle, prosciutto and mortadella, Emilia Romagna is one of the country’s culinary hubs, with Bologna as its heartbeat.

Fond as Ferguson is of Irn-Bru and square sausage, settling in the city they call La Grassa (the fat one), was helped by its culinary offerings, which are extraordinarily good even by Italy’s lofty standards.

“I just knew the food in Italy was good,” he said. “Then when I arrived I quickly found out that Bologna is one of the best. It’s beautiful.”

His favourite three?

“There’s loads of great restaurants and I’m picking from quite a variety here,” he added. “I’ll just go with my favourites. One close to here [Bologna’s training ground] is Tramvia, which is brilliant.”

Originally opened 150 years ago in the Casalecchio di Reno area, a 20-minute drive south of Bologna Centrale, the restaurant has had several names before taking on its current Ristorante Tramvia Cantina e Cucina in 2013.

Expect staples of Bolognese cuisine, such as the tagliatelle al ragu for €13 and the cotoletta alla Bolognese (breaded veal cutlet fried and topped with Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano), for €19 with a slightly more modern twist along with a local selection of cheeses and cold meats.

From Monday to Friday at lunch there is big focus on fish and seafood with Bolognese-style salt cod served with cauliflower cream, lemon-scented escarole, and anise-spiced carrots or gratinated cuttlefish served with pumpkin cream, toasted seeds, broccoli rabe and chilli threads, each for €22.

“Bottega Di Franco is another great restaurant,” Ferguson continued. “And then you have Trattoria Da Me in town.”

The former is a 15-minute drive from Bologna’s old town, set within an ancient manor house once owned by a countess. Dine in a variety of settings: from the veranda and the garden lawn during the summer months, to the cosy indoor rooms – complete with fireplace – during the cold Emilia-Romagna winters.

Expect a menu full of traditional Bolognese dishes, from tortellini in brodo to tagliatelle al ragu, along with rigatoni in white truffle and a big emphasis on seafood offerings such as calamari risotto, roasted seabass and tuna steaks.

Trattoria da Me, meanwhile, is one of the city’s most beloved restaurants and has become a must-visit spot since featuring in the TV show Alessandro Borghese: 4 Ristoranti.

Originally opened in 1937 as Trattoria da Danio, it was a simple osteria, where locals would stop for a glass of wine and home-made cooking. Today it is run by chef Elisa Rusconi, the granddaughter of the original founders, who has revitalised the family legacy. Think vintage pictures on the wall and wooden tables, but with a very attentive and slick service.

Known for Bolognese culinary staples with a modern touch, their cotoletta alla Bolognese (€24) is among the finest in the city, while they also serve lasagne verdi (€17), or green lasagne, which are considered the only truly authentic way to make lasagna alla Bolognese.

The lasagne is made of seven layers and fresh spinach is kneaded directly into the dough, adding a different colour and texture to the pasta. Be aware, however, that true to Bolognese tradition, lasagne at Trattoria Da Me is only available on Sundays.

Ristorante Tramvia Cantina e Cucina
Via Guglielmo Marconi, 31, 40033 Casalecchio di Reno 
Open seven days a week

Bottega di Franco
Via Agucchi, 112, 40131 Bologna
Open Monday-Saturday

Trattoria da Me
Via S. Felice, 50a, 40122 Bologna
Open Tuesday-Sunday