From the Beach to the Match, the Joy of Watching Calcio by the Coast

Ever fancied stepping out of the sea, lying in the sun to dry off and then strolling along to the big game?

This is the one thing that calcio powerhouses such as Milan, Rome and Turin can’t offer. But such is Italy’s depth as a footballing nation there are gems to be found up and down the coasts.

Here’s a few of our favourites.

San Benedetto

The team: Sambenedettese may not be too well known by the casual football observer, having last played as high as Serie B in 1989.

Their bread and butter has chiefly been the third tier, yet the loyalty and passion of their fanbase has never wavered. The residents of San Benedetto, in the Marche region, come out in full force at game time. 

It is just a 10-minute walk from the beach to the Stadio Riviera Delle Palme, meaning you can go from sand, sun and water to flares, chants and goals in no time.

When we were there for the derby with Ascoli the atmosphere in the hours before kick-off was worthy of the San Siro or Stadio Olimpico. A sea of pyro, bangers, songs and flags welcomed the team bus to the stadium in scenes more akin to Francis Ford Coppola’s Vietnam epic Apocalypse Now than a game of football.

The town: Of course there’s more to San Benedetto than fanatical football fans. The city is part of one of the longest stretches of beach in the country, clocking in at around six kilometres. 

It has been awarded the Blue Flag since 1998, a status handed out by the Foundation for Environmental Education, the Danish NGO that surveys environmental standards around Europe. There’s palm trees, shallow water and wide-open space.

And that’s before we get to the cuisine. Restaurants right next to the Adriatic offer high-quality seafood in a relaxed setting, making a weekend in San Benedetto the perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of Italian city life.

If you enjoy nice vistas, head for the village of Grottammare. We made the short trip just outside San Benedetto and up the hill to find a community dripping with charm and a stunning view of the coastline. One of the most beautiful villages in Italy is also a respite when the beach does gets a bit busy in the height of summer.

Pescara

The team: Pescara are no strangers to Serie A, having danced with Italy’s big boys a handful of times during their 90-year existence and their last appearance coming as recently as 2017.

The Stadio Adriatico, much like Sambenedettese’s Stadio Riviera Delle Palme, is so close to the sea you can almost hear the waves from your seat. Almost, but not quite. That’s because at game time the Adriatico morphs into a lively arena full of noise. In the hours before a match, you can see locals munching on arrosticini (lamb skewers), an Abruzzo delicacy that always leaves you wanting more. 

On matchdays, visit Bar Stadio close to the ground, a no-frills local cafe that has been open for more than 80 years. This is exactly what you imagine an old-school calcio bar to be. A Pescara flag hanging in the window, pennants of Serie A, Serie B and European clubs hanging inside and a copy of La Gazzetta dello Sport on top of the bar.

The town: An hour’s drive down the road from San Benedetto, Pescara is famous for its magnificent pedestrian-only 466-metre cable-stayed Ponte del Mare (bridge of the sea) in the heart of the city.

Pescara suffered significant bomb damage during World War II, and so it feels quite fresh and modern compared to other cities in Abruzzo, which possess a more rustic and traditional feel. 

Pescara’s seafront is long with a host of cafes and restaurants and is naturally the place to be during the busy summer months. 

Yet this place isn’t just football, beaches and bridges. The Pescara Jazz Festival started in 1969, traditionally happens in July and is viewed as one of the most significant in Europe. Stars such as Miles Davis, Ella Fitzgerald and Natalie Cole have performed. 

Salerno

The team: In the south, further down than Naples, Salerno often lives in the shadow of the bigger city. But there are plenty of reasons to take a look. Salerno is home to Salernitana and some of the most hardcore fans in the country. The Stadio Arechi, easily one of the more boisterous arenas in Italy, is set for a €150m facelift with the hope of hosting games at Euro 2032.

The club’s fortunes have fluctuated over the past decade, with Salernitana playing in each of the top three divisions. Yet support has been a constant, and taking in a game at the Arechi should be high on anyone’s wishlist. 

The stadium sits on the edge of the city and so close to the shore that some parts of the beach are just a few minutes away on foot.

The town: Located on the eastern end of the Amalfi, Salerno is often used as a base for exploring that area, considering its transport links to Rome and Naples. Yet Salerno has its own distinct flavour that separates it from the small towns up and down the coast.

Locals from this part of the boot flock to Salerno’s beach in the summer months, with the seafront a completely pedestrianised zone that stretches for one-and-a-half kilometres along the Tyrrhenian Sea and is covered in palm trees. Such is Salerno’s popularity among Italians that people from Puglia – a three or four-hour drive away – make the trek across to enjoy the beach.

At evening time, locals congregate on the lungomare for the traditional passeggiata, a gentle stroll along the shore where socialising with friends and family is sacred. As the sun drops and night descends, a top recommendation would be to climb onto the boats that are docked along the shoreline for a drink with a gorgeous view of the sea. 

The combination of cool sea breeze and a nice Campari Spritz made for the perfect end to an intense day of sight-seeing on our recent visit. 

La Spezia

The team: Spezia have been in the limelight in the last few years, featuring in Serie A on several occasions, as recently as 2023. Their Stadio Alberto Picco is one of the best, most modern and intimate arenas in the country, having been totally restructured over the past few years. While not quite as close to the beach as the towns above, the water is nearby. Our tip would be to choose seats in the Tribuna Centrale which, if high enough up, gives great views of the port just behind the opposite stand.

The town: Living in the shadow of Genoa in the region of Liguria, La Spezia is viewed as the gateway to the world famous Cinque Terre. La Spezia, whilst being a port city, is also popular with Italians for its sandy San Terenzo beach in Lerici, on the eastern edge of the city. To do the beach and the game in a day will involve a short drive, around 15-20 minutes, but it is worth it.

With La Spezia having the port, an upscale marina in Porto Mirabello, the hilltop castle in Castello di San Giorgio, Lerici beach, top-notch sushi and of course Spezia, there’s more to the city than just being the starting point of a jaunt further afield.

We visited Nippon Street, a Japanese street food and ramen restaurant in the heart of Piazza Bastione. If sushi is your thing, this is the place.