Gran Bar Torino – Kick Off Your Day With a Bicerin in Buffon’s Old Local

For a real taste of Turin history you have to try bicerin.

This rich drink is a Piemontese speciality dating back to the 18th century – a combination of coffee, cream and chocolate, layered delicately on top of each other so as not to mix.

You will be spoiled for choice as most places serve it – but not many had Juventus legend Gianluigi Buffon as a regular during his two-decade association with Italy’s most successful club.

Gran Bar, in Piazza Gran Madre di Dio next to the Gran Madre church, has been around since the 1960s but reopened in 2003. Like many of its kind in Italy, Gran Bar is a versatile place: somewhere to grab a coffee, tuck in to some sushi or enjoy an aperitif before heading on to dinner elsewhere.

The bar has, in the last few years, gained fame due to the regular presence of Buffon, who lived in this part of town for much of his Juve career. Corso Quintino Sella is an affluent area of Turin, nestled in the hills, out of the hustle and bustle of the centre. It is also where Cristiano Ronaldo lived during his three-year stint in black and white.

This is a Juventus part of town, you won’t find many Torino fans here. A leafy suburb with more greenery and the Piazzale Monte dei Cappuccini, with its gorgeous view over the city and Capuchin monastery, not far away.

Other calcio regulars in the bar include former Bianconeri boss Max Allegri (now with AC Milan) and sporting director Fabio Paratici, once of Tottenham but now back in Italy with Fiorentina.

Buffon was known to have a cappuccino in Gran Bar, likely before heading off to Juve’s Vinovo training ground, but has also been spotted having an aperitif from time to time post-training over the years.

Gran Bar has extensive outdoor seating, but as the sun was setting and with it still being winter, we headed inside. The decor is sleek and stylish, with dark-panelled tables set against modern elements. It could pass for a Japanese restaurant if you didn’t know better. 

Sushi aside, the bar also serves an array of sandwiches, hamburgers and Italian classics such as risotto, riso saltato (fried rice with prawns and vegetables), and tiramisu al bicchiere (tiramisu in a cup) for dessert.

Gran Bar is perhaps the perfect starting off point for a night out. Spritz (Aperol and Campari), various kinds of martini, a list of cocktail options, gin, whisky plus tequila and mezcal are available.

Piazza Gran Madre di Pio is close to the River Po, with clubs and discos lining the west bank known as Murazzi di Po, on the other side. Until the 1950s, this area was a landing place for fishing boats, but has since morphed into an important part of the city for youth culture. 

In summer, with the Turin temperature in the early 20s at night, the Murazzi is a hive of activity, with the sound of chatter and laughter echoing far beyond the area itself. 

If you want somewhere to enjoy an aperitif just outside the (often chaotic) city centre but still be close enough, or if you just want to sit in the same bar that the great Buffon was a regular in, then Gran Bar is the place for you.

Piazza Gran Madre di Dio, 2, 10131 Torino
Sunday to Thursday: 7:30am-2am, Friday and Saturday: 7:30am-3am